ende

2024
24
Dec

Happy holidays!

We wish you all a merry Christmas (or other festivity) and a happy, healthy, adventurous and exciting year 2025!
Thanks for reading and travelling along with us for another year :-)
We send you slightly sweaty kisses from summery hot Papua New Guinea,
Birgit, Christian and Smurfy

2024
16
Dec

Clearance and shopping in Kavieng

Checking in in Kavieng is a pleasure: we had done our online-evisa (50 USD per person) and sent off an email with a prearrival notification beforehand, so when we arrived in Kavieng we simply anchored in front of the friendly Nusa Resort (they take separated rubbish, so make sure you keep burnables, recylable plastic and cans separate!!), took a taxi boat over to town and went to see Martin, the cumstom’s guy. Martin stamped our passports (visa valid for 2 months) and wished us fun exploring PNG–all within 5 minutes, with a big smile and no further fees…
Then we were free to explore the town: smiling faces everywhere (most of them with bright-red teeth due to the nasty habit of chewing betelnuts), better than expected shopping at the numerous supermarkets + hardware stores and great produce at the cheap veg and fruit market. We love PNG!
From the anchorage we just flagged down one of the many passing boats, turned out to be all-ladies ;-)

Got a sim

Checked out the many supermarkets


Got some essentials for Christian

Bought some things to give away at the second-hand shop

Did not buy betelnut…

But lots of fresh goodies at the market!

2024
14
Dec

Finally back in Papua New Guinea!

In 2005 we spent 4 weeks travelling PNG as backpackers, flew to Port Moresby, on to Madang and did some great diving before riding a series of trucks up the highland’s highway. We had a great time (despite travel warnings and expats who told us we’d get killed if we attempted that trip) and vowed to come back soon. Well, it took us a while, but now we’re back :-)
PNG is a big country with many islands, vibrant and very diverse cultures and a multitude of languages: more than 800 languages are still spoken, but fortunately for us PNG has one common language for everybody and that’s Tok Pisin, a pidgin language based on English with lots of Melanesian words, some French, Spanish and even German loanwords and it’s quite easy to learn! Many people also speak good English, which makes conversations even easier (we’re still working on our Tok Pisin).
Like most islands here in the South Pacific, PNG also got “discovered” and “colonised” by various European nations (even though the local inhabitants had discovered it about 40.000 years earlier): in the 19th century the Dutch controlled the western half of PNG’s main island while the Germans and the Brits divided the eastern half into two adminstrations. In 1906 the British transferred the administration to Australia, which took the Southern part from the Germans during WW1. After the war the Australians remained in control of Papua (formerly German) New Guinea (formerly British), while the western part of the island remained Dutch (and would be granted to Indonesia in 1962 resulting in ruthless exploitation of its resources and suppression of its peoples, but that’s another story).

Papua New Guinea became independent in 1972 and the people are proud of their country, flags everywhere and children singing the hymn proudly at school events, even though PNG is struggling with corruption, lack of infrastructure, pollution (like most developing countries–and the developed ones that really should know better sadly as well) and numerous companies (mostly foreign) are exploiting the forest (logging) and the earth (mining). Of course there are still travel warnings in many places due to tribal fighting, but nowadays also because gangs of youth (out of control and on drugs and alcohol according to the villagers we talked to) add to the crime statistics with violent attacks both on locals and tourists.

For now we have only encountered friendly people, the vibes on the outer island and in Kavieng (the main town of New Ireland) are really good and we feel as happy and welcome here as we did 20 years ago! The islands still look lush and beautiful, at least some of the reefs seem to resist the crazy high temperatures (over 31 °C already in December) and all kinds of squawking and chirping birds are flying over Pitufa. We’ll take our time exploring the outer islands this summer :-)

2024
14
Dec

Book recommendation “Seenomaden”

Before we even went sailing for the first time we were already inspired by Doris’ and Wolf’s stories and photos. After watching their presentations about the magical places they visited with their SY Nomad we were even more determined to go cruising… Of course I read Doris’ book then and loved it! In the meantime we have met Doris and Wolf out here in the South Pacific and were lucky to be on the same route with them for a while and found out that they are not just great sailors, but also lovely people to hang out with :-)
“Frei wie der Wind” is still available on Amazon and so are the sequels “So wild wie das Meer” and “Hart wie das Eis”. All three are great reads and highly recommended–IF you speak German. Unfortunately there are no English versions…
They’ll also be doing another round of presentations in the new year, so if you’re in Austria, Germany or Switzerland at that time, check out the dates on their website and be ready to get whirled away by their highly professional and entertaining show to the sunny South Pacific, around the world or to the frosty Northwest-Passage!

2024
04
Dec

Book recommendation

A fellow sailor has written and illustrated a super-sweet book about an octopus and his adventures. It’s for very young readers from 2 to 7 years old. German only though… “Olli Oktopus findet eine Taucherbrille” is the first part of a series and available on Amazon!

2024
29
Nov

3 months of Smurfy!

During his third month aboard, Smurfy turned from a savage, but sweet kitten into a rebellious teenager with severe anger issues ignoring all boundaries and testing his limits daily. We tried all the usual tricks we had learned with our previous cats and also did some reading in cat psychology studies: never play with hands but toys, offer punching balls to get rid of aggression, make meeping/howling sounds when bitten/scratched, ignore him when he’s too aggressive, etc. Nothing worked and we used up a whole package of antiseptic cream on bites and scratches (the Western South Pacific is famous for skin infections…).
Then he started pooping in the garden (after using his toilet from day 1 as a kitten) and again I tried to explain, reason and plead, then proceeded to shouting and ended up hitting him (I never hit Leeloo in 21 years)–all to no avail. When I caught him with his bum still in a herb pot I grabbed him and threw him overboard. That finally did the trick: after quickly climbing back aboard and getting a shower he looked quite contrite and he’s much sweeter and gentler now. It seems he finally realised that he’s not the big alpha cat here aboard and that we’re nice to him not out of weakness, but because we love him. Of course he knows that nobody can resist his mischievous freckles and the sweetest, little dotted belly in the world ;-)




2024
25
Nov

New tattoo

I was quite unhappy when I spotted some spider veins on my boobs last year (of all possible places…). I had them lasered, but they quickly reappeared, so that wasn’t a solution. Planning our journey to Europe last August, I had the idea of a cover-up tattoo, got in touch with an artist in Turkey and liked her sketches. On the way back we did a stop-over in Istanbul and I got my tattoo: a mixture of delicate, ink-drawn leaves in black and purple, water-colour-style semi-transparent flowers. I love them! Much better to show off purple flowers than purple veins :-)

2024
20
Nov

Cats don’t need swimming lessons

Falling over board and drowning is the biggest danger for a ship’s cat. Smurfy’s a reckless climber and we could not persuade him to be careful–he insisted on climbing on solar panels, balancing on the railing and other crazy stunts. We were eagerly waiting for him to finally fall in, so he would learn his lesson in a safe anchorage instead of on passage (where he has to wear a harness and leash now). In the meantime we let him climb up his cat ladder on the stern from the dinghy and even from a boogie board we take with us in the water (he curiously follows us down the steps when we go swimming anyway…). Now the big SPLASH has finally happened… He surfaced, swam determinedly and very fast to the stern (without a moment of confusion where to go) and raced up the ladder. It took maybe 4 seconds between SPLASH and being back aboard and having a freshwater shower…
So cats need neither life vests nor swimming lessons, but a sturdy ladder and training definitely pay off!


2024
17
Nov

Underwater pictures!

Underwater Wonderland

There are very few untouched coral reefs left in the South Pacific. We have found one and were at anchor there for over two weeks without land in sight. Unforgettable encounters with fishies, who are not afraid of divers, as they don't know about spear guns. We spent several hours every day in the water just enjoying their natural behaviour :-) Too often elsewhere, we encounter hardly any fish and those we see, quickly disappear under a rock to hide in panic... Despite very warm water temperatures we were happy to encounter some healthy coral!

(44 photos)


2024
11
Nov

Doomsday atmosphere

The weather here in the South Pacific matches the atmosphere in global politics. I’m sure those who voted against measures to save our planet’s climate and for reckless economical growth are happy now, thinking that the prices for their groceries will magically drop with a “strong man” leading the “great nation”. Well, the prices won’t drop. They have been rising all over the planet, which some lobbies probably making big money while blaming the wars in Europe and the Middle East (but that’s just my personal conspiracy theory based on common sense rather than fake news).
What people should be worried about is how they might be next in line to lose their houses, all their belongings and maybe even their lives in the next cyclone (or hurricane), flood or wildfire cause by drought. All of these events are getting more severe as the pollution caused by humans is heating up Mother Earth to a point she can no longer cope with.
We’re at a point where all people or rather all nations should forget their animosities and work together to make sure that we still have a future in which to worry about prices of groceries or arguments about politics or borders or religion or gender, etc.

2024
04
Nov

A boat garden

We love to linger in remote places, but of course you can’t just go shopping for fresh herbs, salad or veg on an uninhabited island… Therefore it’s great to grow some and we usually have basil, mint, spring onions, parsley and sometimes even bellpeppers, chilis, pak choy or tomatoes growing in pots underneath the sprayhood. They are placed on a non-skid mat and secured with bungee cords, so they can even stay there during rough passages! In the beginning we had them only outside in bay mode and put them below deck on passage, but that never worked as the plants died without light or the pots toppled over at some point. Only when we found a system to leave them in place all the time the garden started thriving.
We have pots without a drainage hole to avoid a mess, but that means it’s easy to drown the plants (has happened a few times). To guarantee a good harvest despite little soil I use fertiliser once a week and change the soil twice a year.
Today we harvested radishes–great as you can’t just use the roots, but also the greens.

2024
30
Oct

Pictures of our ship’s cat

Smurfy is growing up so fast! At barely 4 months he already weighs 2 kilos…

Smurfy's second month aboard

October brought lots of fun helping with sails, keeping us busy on passages (we had to put him in a harness at some point, not a popular move), coconuts, flying fishies and tons of playtime!

(22 photos)


2024
25
Oct

SE trade winds versus NW monsoon

The trade winds are fairly reliable winds that blow basically around the globe in a wide belt north and south of the Equator. These winds have carried us around half the world from Europe to the Pacific and we’ve relied on them to take us westwards and quite often battled them when sailing eastwards. We were used to having stronger and more reliable trade winds between SE and NE during the winter months and more fickle, weaker winds during summer.
Here in the western Pacific we face a (for us) new pattern: during the summer the monsoon winds bring northwesterly wind directions!
For our passage from Vanuatu via the Solomons and on to Papua New Guinea this means that we have to make use of the SE wind to make it quickly up to PNG before the wind shift to predominantly NW in December. We will then slowly hop back from PNG via the Solomons towards Vanuatu on the NW monsoon. Check out https://www.pitufa.at/oceanwinds/ for more details!
Here’s what Christian’s interactive wind atlas shows for October:

And here’s February:

2024
23
Oct

Skill toy for Smurfy

Keeping a kitten aboard busy keeps us pretty busy! Smurfy’s happy to play along with anything we play with (or rather everything we handle…), and he can play “chase” the mouse for hours just running after a rope or a roll of toilet paper, but we also want him to practice his dexterity. The first box we makeshifted lasted only a week–Smurfy just smashed it in his eagerness to get at the ball inside. The second version is extra-reinforced and has already been on duty for a month! We simply cut differently sized holes into a box, glued reinforcement cardboard all around and fill it with different toys. Especially on passages he loves playing with it as the balls inside magically come to life and race around…
The first version didn’t stand a chance…

Double and triple reinforced box:

It took him a moment to figure out what he was supposed to do

But he quickly got it!

2024
15
Oct

How do boaters without a ship’s cat manage?

Smurfy has turned from a docile kitten to a raucous teenager within a few weeks. At least he’s still eager to help with every task Christian and I try to accomplish… How did we get anything done before we got our Smurfy?



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