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  • Bleached, dying, dead

    Have you ever cried into a diving mask? I did today when we were snorkeling on the reef off Vella Lavella (Solomon Islands). We had visited the village of Leona before and were thrilled to hear that they are thinking of the future and have been protecting their reef for 20 years(!) with no-fishing zones. Additionally they have now created a conservation area in the… Continue reading »

  • Logging in the Solomons

    In Taro we saw a big freighter loading logs and asked the guys at customs and immigration about it: they said that logging was done on a big scale by Malayan companies. Asked about regulations for reforestation they just sadly smiled and shook their heads–theoretically maybe, but neither the logging companies nor the land owners actually replant trees. So lush rain forest is turned into… Continue reading »

  • No NW monsoon over PNG

    Remember our plan to sail up from Vanuatu to the north of PNG using the SE trades in order to arrive before December when the wind collapses and then sail back from northern PNG to the Solomons using the NW monsoon that’s supposed to blow over PNG from December to March? Well, that didn’t work out: the winds got very light (but predominantly east) in… Continue reading »

  • 6 months of Smurfy and we’re still struggling

    Smurfy’s the most stubborn person I’ve ever met (of any species and that includes my own pighead), fiercely independent and rebellious–not ideal features of a ship’s cat. None of the cats we’ve had before prepared us for this struggle… Sometimes we’re close to giving up, but then he shows his adorable, dotted belly and we’re melting again. Sometimes we suspect that he’s not quite sane…… Continue reading »

  • Canning fish

    Big fishing fleets empty the Pacific, but we still troll a simple handline whenever we sail between islands and sometimes we get lucky! On the last sail we caught a jack while still in the lagoon–perfect size and timing and Christian quickly cleaned it with Smurfy eagerly watching and waiting for the first bite of sashimi… When we were in the middle of the passage… Continue reading »

  • New tattoo

    I was quite unhappy when I spotted some spider veins on my boobs last year (of all possible places…). I had them lasered, but they quickly reappeared, so that wasn’t a solution. Planning our journey to Europe last August, I had the idea of a cover-up tattoo, got in touch with an artist in Turkey and liked her sketches. On the way back we did… Continue reading »

  • Cats don’t need swimming lessons

    Falling over board and drowning is the biggest danger for a ship’s cat. Smurfy’s a reckless climber and we could not persuade him to be careful–he insisted on climbing on solar panels, balancing on the railing and other crazy stunts. We were eagerly waiting for him to finally fall in, so he would learn his lesson in a safe anchorage instead of on passage (where… Continue reading »

  • How do boaters without a ship’s cat manage?

    Smurfy has turned from a docile kitten to a raucous teenager within a few weeks. At least he’s still eager to help with every task Christian and I try to accomplish… How did we get anything done before we got our Smurfy?

  • Let there be Rock!

    Our loudspeakers in the cockpit started crackling and failing a few months ago. No problem, we got new ones in Austria and simply brought them back to the boat along with other roughly 59 kg of goodies for Pitufa… A few days ago while we were on passage, Christian ripped out the old ones and started cleaning and sanding the area while Pitufa was happily… Continue reading »

  • Shopping in Luganville

    “Hot town, summer in the city, back of my neck gettin’ dirty and gritty…” We wandered the dust roads of Luganville doing grocery shopping and running errands and everything we carry home from supermarkets and the veg market is sandy and gritty (including ourselves). Luganville is Vanuatu’s second biggest town, but it’s more like a long drawn-out village without any recognizable center. Most grocery shops… Continue reading »

  • A whole month of SMURFY!

    Our little Smurf has been with us now for a month, went from a handful of cat to more than quite a handful, from clumsy, sleepy baby to gangly, raucous kid, from 1 pound to almost 3 pounds! By now he’s an expert sailor, we have to keep him back as he’s getting a bit too adventurous for our taste One handful at 8 weeks… Continue reading »

  • New ceiling lights in salon, kitchen and aft cabin!

    When we inspected our Pitufa before the purchase, I thought the ugly ceiling lights would be the first things we’d toss. Somehow there were always more important jobs on the to-do list though. Now, only 16 years later, we’ve finally got round to replacing them

  • Foto gallery: Smurfy’s a natural-born sailor!

    After having our kitten just two weeks aboard we left Port Vila and sailed up to Malekula. We were worried that he’d be scared and seasick, but he had a good time!

  • A cat tree up the companionway!

    Pitufa’s steep ladder with 6 wide-apart rungs down our 160 cm high companionway is an insurmountable obstacle for a kitten. Impossible to climb up and potentially lethal when trying to jump down (despite a mount of cushions on the wooden floorboards). We therefore went out to buy material for a cat tree–not so easy in Port Vila. At first we couldn’t find a tube with… Continue reading »

  • Ship’s kittens need boundaries

    That’s true for every kitten, but especially aboard, where understanding a few words in human language and actually obeying them can potentially save a few of a cat’s nine lives… We use the standard German word “NEIN” to tell him that something’s completely forbidden and taboo, which is handy as it’s not a word we use in any other context (when talking to each other… Continue reading »

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