Today we are getting Pitufa into passage-mode–always an tedious job after an extended period in a lagoon. Big jobs like washing and storing the kayak, getting the dinghy on deck and preparing poles for a downwind-course are obvious, but there’s dozens of other tiny chores like declattering cupboards, baking bread, baking cake as a passage-treat, wiping the floors, (we sleep on a mattress on the… Continue reading »
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2018
14
May
2018
03
May
Plastic
We have moved on to the westernmost anchorage on the southside of Tahanea to check out the last of the three bird-motu clusters. Fortunately this spot remains untouched, boobies are circling the two little motus and preparing for the next nesting season. Only few palmtrees grow here, so apparently they weren’t worth making copra here. A long white sand-bank stretches out from the motu towards… Continue reading »
2018
28
Apr
Destruction of bird motus in Tahanea
Last year we were already worried about the fact that some locals moved over from the neighbouring atoll of Faaite to Tahanea, which had been uninhabited for a while with only some remains of old houses still visible. We could immediately see the difference in wildlife and observed fewer birds on the untouched motus on the Southwestern side. We were alarmed enough to get an… Continue reading »
2018
22
Apr
Boobies!
The sun’s just rising over the motu next to us, the outlines of a cumulus cloud on the horizon gleam like it was on fire and the silhouettes of some palm trees in the foreground pose for a south-sea paradise poster. The air is filled with a strange roaring and cackling that sounds like deer and monkeys, but of course that’s impossible here in the… Continue reading »
2018
20
Apr
New tenants for our flat in Austria
We are searching for new tenants for our flat in Graz. As it’s unlikely that English-speaking readers will be interested in renting it, we post the ad just on the Austrian side of the blog
2018
20
Apr
Shitty days in paradise?
Usually we enjoy our internetfree life on board, but when there are problems, the dogdy communication lines can get on our nerves. We have managed to order a new lightwind sail during the passage (the folks at Hongkong Sails were extremely helpful!), we’re in touch with Spectra, because our shiny new watermaker’s already dodgy and on top of that we need new tenants for our… Continue reading »
2018
20
Apr
Leisure time and chores
After a passage there’s always some work to do on the boat, but during our first 2 days in Tahanea the weather was gorgeous, sunny and calm, so we thought ‘carpe diem’ and went snorkeling instead. The W-pass was an impressive experience as always with dozens of grey reef sharks (we were actually able to watch them hunting during daytime!) and lots of tiny fishies.… Continue reading »
2018
18
Apr
Back in Tahanea
Yesterday at noon we saw our last chance to catch a fish on this passage and approached yet another atoll (our fourth). We surfed close to the barrier reef in rough seas and when the waves calmed down in the shade of the atoll one of the lines finally stretched out and we hauled in a big jack. When we were in the middle of… Continue reading »
2018
16
Apr
Squalls
We’ve had a rather annoying night with some squalls. Lack of sleep is the main problem on a passage when only 2 people can share the nightwatches and stumbling out of the bunk in between in howling winds and pouring rain for sail changes doesn’t help. This morning it’s sunny again, so we hope for a pleasant last sailing day. 100 nm to go!
2018
16
Apr
Fishing
Even though we’ve had a lure out right from the start (yep, even when it was rough and we felt more than a bit queasy), we haven’t caught a fish yet. Today our course came close to two atolls and as fishing’s always best near an island we sailed along their southern and southeastern outer reefs. Edging in towards a breaking reef under sails with… Continue reading »
2018
14
Apr
Going bananas
We are sailing nicely along in calmer conditions, but still going fast. Of course we tried to stock up as much fresh veg and fruit as possible before we left the Gambier, but now the two stacks of green bananas have gone all yellow long before we have reached our destination. Going bananas towards the Tuamotus with 360 nm to run!
2018
13
Apr
Lightning
With the prediction forecasting strong winds we buckled down when we reached a bank of dark clouds yesterday. Instead of the expected 20 knots we got no wind and gusts over 35 in between with lots of lightning. Not great. We ended up motoring for a few hours to get out of that soup and finally found the northeasterlies at midnight. Now we’re sailing along… Continue reading »
2018
12
Apr
More wind
Last night the wind set in and we’re going fast and close-hauled in 15 to 20 knots now. The weatherforecast predicts rain and squalls, but it’s still sunny.
2018
12
Apr
Slow start
We left the Gambier again today at noon, despite light northwesterly winds (yep, northwest is where we should actually sail). Our plan is to sail up north first and gain a headstart on a front that is supposed to arrive tomorrow with rain, squalls and northeasterly winds that should pick up and take us straight towards the Tuamotus. 655 nm to go to Tahanea (we’ll… Continue reading »
2018
08
Apr
False start
Yesterday the weather looked squally, but the forecast seemed alright for a passage. We had already spent a day preparing the boat (it always takes us ages to get Pitufa into passage mode after such a long time), so we set out from the Gambier. We sailed out with a squall, but as soon as the black cloud had passed, it left us with no… Continue reading »