ende

2022
19
Dec

Bird Island for sale!

Wailangilala is home to a few hundred red-footed boobies, a few hundred noddies (most common in Fr Poly, but rare here), some white terns and–much to our suprise and delight–about 20 couples of brown boobies! Those ground-nesting birds have become a rare sight, even though according to our Wikipeda they are listed as “least concern”–makes you wonder when somebody bothered to count last… It’s wonderful to wake up a chorus of roaring boobies and chirping terns, we haven’t seen that many birds in a long time! We also found turtle tracks up the beach and the nests above the tide line.

The island is private, the previous owner only built 8 houses here, planned to have a resort, but never finished the building site and the island was left alone again (only a care-taker family lives here). On the weekend a real estate agent came by–the island is for sale and he wanted to see the property before listing it. A film crew will come soon to do a promotional video. He claimed that there are strict environmental stipulations about the use, but we are still very worried about this bird paradise. The island is a (comparative) bargain, we wished we could buy it for the birds…

2022
17
Dec

Wailangilala

Wailangilala is a strange atoll: not a single coral head inside the lagoon and hardly any on the oval-shaped barrier reef. We went snorkeling in the pass, but even there we found only rocks with isolated, sparse coral growth and only a few fishies (at least a couple of grey reef sharks came by to check us out). We are puzzled by the lack of life: if the reef got damaged by a cyclone, wouldn’t there be young growth everywhere? And shouldn’t the deeper coral be in a good shape? But if it’s man-made damage (from dynamite fishing or fishing with poison), how can it be so wide-spread? We have no explanation.

The reef doesn’t give much protection, so it’s bouncy at low tide and rock and roll at high tide. We arrived with a light SE wind that was supposed to die down, but has shifted to the SW instead. There’s only one little island on the NE side of the lagoon and the anchorage in front of it doesn’t give any protection from the SW. We anchored there and it was unbearable, so we took the dinghy with the portable depth sounder around the cape to see whether there was a possibility to anchor Pitufa there. We found a deep, but incredibly narrow channel between rocks, but no open space big enough to anchor with swinging room. We ended up taking Pitufa through this precarious channel (breaking surf on the beach on one side, shallow rocks on the other) and anchored with a stern line to a bommie. It’s a bit better here, but we still spent the night in passage-mode (one of us sleeping in on the salon couch, the other one on the passage mattress on the floor).

2022
16
Dec

Going exploring!

The weather looks settled enough, so we’re sailing to some little islands north of the Lau group. Looking at sat images we hope for some pristine nature, but we’re also worried that we may find uninhabited islands that get exploited by neighbouring islands and are therefore in a bad state. We’re hoping for the best and will keep you posted! From now on you’ll see just the default image of the smurfette in FB posts that get automatically forwarded from our blog. The pic of the smurfette means we have no internet and can only communicate via SSB radio and pactor modem.

2022
15
Dec

Forest fires

In so many places on earth forests are burned down to make space for cattle, agriculture, etc. Here on Vanua Balavu every second hill features only blackened tree stumps, the soil is getting washed away and erosion is clearly visible. We have talked to people and apparently there’s no plan behind the fires that are devastating the island–just carelessness and stupidity. We talked to the chief about erosion and the fact that with each rain soil gets washed away, so the island is less fertile and the reefs suffer. As we were buzzing back in the dinghy we noticed yet another column of smoke–a nearby hill was burning all night. Really sad.

2022
14
Dec

New Pitufino hardware model

We’d like to proudly announce Pitufino’s new hardware model!
Besides a few smaller changes (like the addition of a reset button or a status LED), the new model V1.1 features an alarm buzzer.
This brings the advantage that mobile devices can go into a sleep mode or offline and alarms are still reliably raised.
This further enables Pitufino to be used as a repeater (or an external alarm) for alarms sent over NMEA2000/SeatalkNG from Raymarine and Navico (Simrad,B&G,…) devices.

Available in our online shop now.

2022
13
Dec

Noisy neighbourhood

Our anchorage here on the East side of Vanua Balavu is very calm and protected from the current NW winds, but still we’re woken up at each morning at 5–it’s the noisy neighbours returning from their foraging in the forest. A big colony of fruitbats (flying foxes) live on the island next to us! They spend their days hanging upside down and supposedly resting, but the screeching and quarelling never stops–makes you wonder how they’re not too sleepy to fly out at night… Really cute, little animals!

2022
11
Dec

More photos! Fulanga, Fiji

Fulanga, Fiji

We spent a few weeks in Fulanga, enjoying the strange landscape of this raised atoll and the friendly people. The little island in the southern Lau group is a popular place, no less than 120 yachts came here in 2022, but in November we had the lagoon just to ourselves.

(30 photos)


Fulanga's underwater world

Among the many passes we've snorkeled, Fulanga's definitely among our Top 3. Big groups of fish outside, a wonderful variety of healthy coral and myriads of little fish inside. Overfishing's a problem in the lagoon, so we tried to convince the islanders to install protected zones to ensure sustainable fishing.

(30 photos)

2022
09
Dec

grib files

Whenever we’re underway and the weather’s not acting according to the forecast, I complain about the grib files… So here’s what they look like: this is today’s American GFS model of the SW Pacific. While NZ is squashed between two nasty weather systems, Fiji (top middle) is having a little branch of the convergence zone that gives us oppressively hot and humid weather with thunderstorms and squalls…

2022
05
Dec

Fruit and veg!

Even though Vanua Balavu has a weekly flight, the shops only have basic supplies and there is no local veg market. We asked around and got plenty of fresh veg and fruit from friendly women here! Today we’ll make preserves :-)

2022
03
Dec

Photos of our new kayak

Our new kayak

We've recently bought an inflatible two-seater kayak and we love our Advanced Elements Island Voyage! It's stable, tracks well, light, easy to handle and store. It's quiet and pollution-free - the perfect way to explore lagoons! Especially between the mushroom islands of Fulanga it's the perfect means of transport...

(16 photos)

2022
02
Dec

Interview on the radio

We met with Ursula Burkert for an interview in August and on Sunday it will be on air on Ö1, the Austrian station for classical music, news and culture :-)
Here’s the link!

2022
01
Dec

Photos from Matuku

Finally, some photos again! Village life and beautiful nature on this little island in the south-western Lau group. We did our best to spread the word about overfishing and sustainability among the kids as well as the chiefs and headmen and it looks like the villages will indeed start protecting their reefs!

Matuku

We have visited the little island Matuku in the Western Lau group twice this year (2022). It's off the beaten track and not many yachts make it here. The people are super-friendly, there are several good anchorages and the reef is simply beautiful!

(46 photos)

2022
29
Nov

Arriving at dawn

Of course we got more than the predicted 15 knots, so in the end we had to reef down to almost nothing to avoid arriving at night. Vanua Balavu is a big archipelago with numerous islands within a deeply submerged barrier reef that doesn’t give much protection and we’re anchored in a bay on the E side of the main island to be able to pick up the internet signal from the only antenna at the main village. After 7 weeks without internet we have quite some catching up to do!
Within 5 minutes of arriving we saw a car on the coastal road (wow!) and a plane descending (WOW!!)–but let’s not get carried away: Vanua Balavu has 1 little plane per week and the car we saw was probably on the way to the airport for that reason ;-)
There’s only one other airport in the Lau group at Lakemba, so the islands are not easy to reach (unlike Fr Poly, where the French built an airport on basically all inhabited atolls).

2022
28
Nov

Flat in Graz to rent

We are searching for new tenants for our garden flat in Graz, Austria. Send us an email if you’re interested or know someone how may be!

2022
28
Nov

On to the next island

We are getting ready to leava Fulanga. We’ve had quite a hyperactive time here and would have needed 48 hour days to fit everything in:
- village life (spending time with our host family, Christian did some electric repairs, spreading info about sustainable fishing)
- nature (snorkeling and kayaking in different areas, each one prettier than the last)
- and of course boat projects (Christian serviced our winches and I sanded and painted the frame of the forecabin hatch)
Today we’ll sail northwards to Vanua Balavu, because it’s the next island with shops, 4G and protected anchorages. Along the way we’ll have to pay close attention to the course, because we’ll go through the dense island chain of the Lau group and will have to dodge several islands. The weather forecast looks great (Easterly winds around 15 knots), so we should make the 120 nm in less than 24 hours.

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