There’s more Austrian boats than you’d think in the South Pacific, but as it’s such a wide area we don’t run into them very often. At the moment there are two others here in Raroia though and we’ve met up in the Southeastern ‘Austrian corner’. We met Alrisha (www.alrisha.at) in the Gambier last year already, but it’s the first time that we manage to catch up with SY Nomad (www.seenomaden.at). Doris and Wolf have been out for more than 2 decades and their popular presentations and books have inspired many from our landlocked country to go out sailing the seven seas. It’s fun to hang out with those ‘sailing stars’ for a bit!
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2020
29
Jun
2020
26
Jun
A perfect day for our 25th
For our 25th anniversary yesterday we had planned to spend a lazy day with Tuamotu entertainment (motu walk and snorkeling). Unfortunately it was grey with pouring rain, so we spent the day in front of our laptops, working as usually. At least we opened a bottle of red and cooked up a gourmet feast. Still a bit disappointing.
Today we were rewarded with that perfect day in turquoise we had wished for: a motu walk with birdies and a huge, old whale skeleton on the outer reef, snorkeling with beautiful coral, colourful fishies and curious sharkies and on the way back a blue-fin jack bit heartily into our lure–as good as it gets 
2020
20
Jun
Dawn on the wrong side
We’re in the trade wind belt, so the wind usually blows from somewhere between Southeast and Northeast. When a Northwesterly comes it’s normally during or at the onset of a depression or trough, but this time it slowly clocked from the Northeast to the Northwest with sunny skies because the trough is rather weak. We’ve used this unusual weather to explore the western side of the atoll.
As I’m writing this blog (with the laptop on the bimini to find a few bars of mobile phone connection) the seldom visited motus ahead of us awake with red-footed boobies roaring, reed warblers singing and terns adding their shrill calls. There’s not many places left where you can listen to this morning choir anymore… Behind me the sunrise paints the sky in a bright orange that fades to a dark purple above me with the last stars twinkling faintly.
Today the wind is expected to turn to the west and we’ll use this breeze to sail trough the bommie-strewn lagoon all the way down to the Southeast corner as there’s a mara’amu (strong Southeasterly) precidicted for tomorrow (and a couple of days).
2020
15
Jun
Approaching Raroia
Last night the wind turned into a light breeze–ideal timing or we would have arrived too early. Now we’re sailing down the western side of Raroia towards the pass, it’s a beautiful sunny morning, just a few tiny rainclouds around and we hope to catch one of them as Pitufa’s in dire need of a boatwash. In the shade of the island it’s calm, so Leeloo has declared the passage for over and has left her sea berth for a second breakfast (during a rough passage she only gets up for urgent errands–water, toilet and back to bed) 
2020
14
Jun
Fast passage
The fast ride goes on, fortunately it’s the tack heeling towards the galley, so cooking’s still okay… We’ve had the lure out since we left, just the right conditions for an oh-no-not-now fishy, but still no luck. Apart from that the fourlegged and twolegged crew are doing well. 100 nm to go!
2020
13
Jun
Fast sailing
The squally weather continues, not much fun, but at least we’re fast, averaging 6 knots. 235 nm to go!
2020
12
Jun
Unpleasant night
Last night one squall followed the other, keeping the watch busy. We had mostly 20 knots from the NE, gusting 30. Now conditions have settled a bit. 370 nm to go!
2020
11
Jun
Sunny day
It’s a sunny day, lighter winds, so we’re going a bit slower, but it’s very comfy sailing. 510 nm (out of 600) to go to Raroia!
2020
11
Jun
Sunny day
It’s a sunny day, lighter winds, so we’re going a bit slower, but it’s very comfy sailing. 510 nm (out of 600) to go to Raroia!
2020
10
Jun
Towards the Tuamotus
After a week of stormy, rainy weather we now have stable conditions again, so we set out today at noon for the Tuamotus! 15-20 Knoten aus ONO, Fahrt 5-6 Knoten
2020
02
Jun
Naked in the rain
After a long period of stable weather we saw a convergenze zone with rain and wind afterwards approaching, tucked in and prepared the rain collection system. During breakfast we heard heavy rain pounding on the island next to us and minutes later bucket-loads of water splashed on us. We could see hasty preparations on neighbouring boats–nobody wants to accumulate wet clothes, so people tend to hop around naked, adjusting hoses and spreading canvas… Then a few late-comers got to anchor just in the middle of the downpour.
We have a watermaker, but rain means high-quality water for free, so we’re always happy to catch us much as possible. As soon as the tanks are filled the excitement wears off, so we hope that the predicted week of nasty weather will be cut short.
2020
31
May
Propaganda and protests in Tahiti
It looks like we won’t have another weather opportunity for at least a week, so we decided to exchange our broken old wind instrument for a new one. Christian’s been up and down the mast 5 times in the past 2 days, getting the old wind instrument off, new one on, pulling cables, etc. Of course that means I’m on duty all the time as well, hauling him and bits and pieces up and down whenever he shouts–quite some work-out for both of us
While everything’s nice and relaxed on the outer islands, we hear from friends in Tahiti that the situation there is getting precarious. The former official anchorage off Marina Taina is supposed to be closed down soon, therefore lots of cruisers anchored off the airport and got stuck during the Covid confinement. The policy of sending all new arrivals straight to Tahiti to check in there has led to a whole fleet there. Now locals protest against anchored boats and the usual propaganda in the media accuse cruisers to pollute the lagoon without adding to the economy. Completely ridiculous when you consider how much we all spend for groceries, boat parts, etc.
Especially now that no flights get into French Polynesia people should realise that WE are their only tourists here. Instead of pampering us and urging us to spend money they want us to disappear into thin air…
2020
30
May
Back
After a few hours of clanging and banging with the gennaker collapsing and filling in high waves and little wind we gave up and tacked back to the Gambier. No use damaging material with an unsettled forecast ahead. After 2 days of preparation and 1 day of sailing we’re back where we started from
2020
29
May
Light winds
The weather forecast promised a light, but do-able weather window to reach the Tuamotus. We had a preparation frenzy yesterday, sailed out after dark, drifted around for a bit and motored back into the lagoon–no wind. This morning we try again, the gennaker’s up and flying, but not much wind. We’ll see…
2020
28
May
Birthdays
Today my Mum would turn 80. She dreaded that ‘horrible number’ and said she would not celebrate that birthday… I could not fly home for her funeral, but I had a flight booked in May to be at her grave today. Now with the ongoing Covid-19 crisis there are still no flights going to/from French Polynesia and nobody knows when and it what form (with quarantine on both ends?) travelling will be possible again.
Christian wanted to fly to Austria for a much happier reason–his father will also turn 80 in a week. Unfortunately Christian won’t be there for the celebration…