ende

2024
28
May

Islands ahead!

It has been another fast sailing day. After ages we have managed to catch a fish again (a smallish barracuda) and we have already processed it and made preserves in the pressure cooker. It’s generally more lively here with little petrels circling the boat and swishing over the waves. We can see Futuna to the north and Anatom ahead, but we still have 45 nm to go and it’s already 5 in the afternoon, so we’ll arrive long after dark.

2024
27
May

Racing with a little break in between

Usually it’s a nightmare when the wind dies down after a strong blow, as you’re left with high waves and a madly bucking boat. Yesterday the seas calmed down along with the winds, so we used the welcome break to air the boat and do some domestic chores (baking bread, straining a batch of kefir for banana smoothies and Christian even managed to shave without cutting himself ;-) .
At noon the wind picked up, Pitufa accelerated from 3.5 knots to 6 knots again and we’ve been racing along ever since.
100 nm to go!

2024
26
May

More than half the distance done

The night was still fast sailing, but now going’s getting a bit slow. According to the grib the wind should pick up soon again. Finally some rays of sunshine this morning! No fish yet…
230 nm to go

2024
25
May

Going fast!

It has been a bouncy night with winds of 25 knots+ from the Southeast and confused waves–one of them managed to swamp the cockpit (a very rare occasion on Pitufa). This morning it’s grey again–some sun would be nice.
360 nm to go

2024
24
May

Underway to Vanuatu

Our blog entries from underway will come to you via old-fashioned SSB and will be automatically sent on to pitufa FB (we haven’t given in to the temptation of Starlink yet, I call it Stinklink because of the air pollution all those rockets taking up satellites cause), so there won’t be any pics while we’re at sea. It looks like a rough, fast passage, should take about 4 days to Anatom.
500 nm to go!

2024
23
May

Good-bye Fiji!!

In June 2022 we arrived in Fiji, uncertain how long we’d stay, but soon we knew that we’d need plenty of time to explore this beautiful cruising area. We were enchanted by the crazy mushroom-like lime-stone formations of Fulaga and Vanua Balavu and enjoyed the high volcanic islands of the southern Lau group, Kadavu and Loma-i-viti Group. We spent more time in the water exploring reefs than anywhere else before (underwater was the best place to be during the hot summer months) and helped install a marine reserve on the island of Matuku.
We got incredibly lucky and didn’t experience any strong winds during our 2 cyclone seasons here–of course we had a plan for the worst case scenario and cyclone holes to run to, but never needed them.
What made our time in Fiji so special though, are the fabulous people we met: Vinaka vaka levu (thanks a lot) to our families in Matuku, Ono and Fulaga! We really enjoyed your hospitality and friendship. Let’s keep in touch, we’ll come back to Fiji at some point!!
Vinaka vaka levu for all the lunches and hikes to Tiko, Penina and the girls in Matuku!


Vinaka vaka levu to Cama, Tuni, Tui and everybody who helped with the Tabu marine reserve!

We had lots of fun with Waqa, Marica and Sai! Vinaka!!


All the best to Maika and Mata in Fulaga!


Vinaka vaka levu to all the other fabulous people who made us feel so welcome here!!

2024
22
May

Replacing the windows of a dodger

2 years ago we published how-to articles in several magazines after replacing the plexi windows of our sprayhood. Now it ripped AGAIN–the material we got in Tahiti was just too thin. At least we could look up our own tips and tricks and how to do this without too much swearing (yes, there was still some involved, wrestling 4 metres of resisting sunbrella really isn’t fun). The trick is to leave the old windows in, sew on the new ones and THEN take out the old material to make sure you don’t lose the shape.
Here’s the magic moment when the old window comes off and reveals the shiny new one!

We spent 2 days replacing all 5 windows this week, but this time with 0.75 mm that will hopefully last a long time!
BTW, our DIY instructions on this kind of job and many more can all be found in our book “Cruising Know-How” on Amazon :-)

2024
19
May

Handy smurf at his make-shifting best!

Our old, feeble deck lights were no longer working and we found a powerful replacement. Unfortunately the new light is square, while the old one was round… Christian make-shifted a solution, literally fitting a square peg in a round hole ;-)
2 trips up the mast and now we have a light strong enough to host a football game on deck! Another task ticked off the preparations list :-)

2024
16
May

Still in Suva

During our first week in the capital we tackled our projects full of energy, but then I caught some bug (the air conditioned shops and offices in combination with coughing/sneezing people always get me…) which rendered me basically useless for a week. On top of that the weather turned windy and rainy, which complicates things as well and keeps interrupting projects.
We hope to be done soon now and then only the wind needs to cooperate for our 500 nm passage westwards to Vanuatu!

2024
29
Apr

Our last day in paradise

We were planning to return to Suva in May anyway, but now we are forced to sail there slightly earlier, because our fridge has developed a leak… As soon as we’re back in the capital we have to have that fixed, then an overhauled pump will (hopefully) arrive from the US for our watermaker, we have to fix our sprayhood (the material we got for the window repair in Tahiti was too thin, so we have to do it again after just 2 years), the wind instrument on the mast no longer works and has to come down and then we have to do a last shopping round, prepare the check-in for Vanuatu and the check-out for Fiji and, and, and…
With all those tasks looming ahead like a dark cloud on the horizon we wanted to make our last day “out on the islands” extra pleasant, so after the usual morning chores (bread, laundry and then some hull cleaning) we took Pitufa out to the reef for the last time to go snorkeling there. We had a great time in the fabulous underwater landscapes of the barrier reef of Gau with some patches of healthy coral and others sadly bleached. Towards the end of the snorkel a sea snake came by and then a well-sized lemon decided to say hi and really make this a special day! So we saw our first proper-sized shark during our last visit to Fiji’s underwater world…
We finished off the day with a walk on the beach and a sundowner on Pitufa with the parrots ashore singing us a good-bye serenade (well, squawking a serenade, but it’s the thought that counts) ;-)

2024
28
Apr

Sea snake!

Here in Fiji we quite often encounter sea snakes while snorkeling and watch them foraging for food on coral reefs and heading up to the surface occasionally to take a breath. They are extremely venomous, but fortunately not aggressive and apparently their mouths are too small to bite something as big as a human (maybe a pinky toe would fit, but they are safely hidden in the fins ;-) , so we are not worried when we see one. All the ones we’ve met so far were less than a metre, but in Gau we saw one that was at least one and a half metres! We looked it up, apparently males grow to 80 cm and females to 1.40, so we must have encountered a fully grown, female yellow-lipped sea krait – exciting!

2024
27
Apr

Gau

Last week we used a light northeasterly wind to sail 30 nm to the next island. Gau is Fiji’s 5th biggest island and it’s pretty with lush hills and a barrier reef and lagoon on the east side (just a fringing reef in the north and west).
We anchored in the big, protected bay of Waikama and went ashore to introduce ourselves and bring a sevusevu (bundle of kava). Philipe, the headman, told us about a newly installed marine protected zone (they’ve had others before) and a project to plant mangroves–a very positive first impression! We then went for a walk, got chatting along the way with Balelevuka who gave us eggplants and plantains he had just harvested and when we got back down to the village, Litia invited us for tea and freshly baked buns! Back on the boat Timoci came by with his sons and a few other boys to say hi and we ended up with more plantains and wild yams…
The warm generosity of its people make Fiji a truly exceptional place :-)

2024
25
Apr

Encounters

Many of the anchorages we visit even in remote places are devoid of life, no fish in the water around the boat, hardly any birds to be seen.
Therefore we really appreciate lively surroundings, like here in Ovalau: most mornings a group of dolphins swims by in the lagoon, swarms of tiny, silvery fish are skipping over the surface fleeing some larger predator, we hear a multitude of different bird songs from the neighbouring shore and snorkeling we encounter reef sharks and sometimes turtles. Most of them scurry away when they see people (they are still hunted here in Fiji), but this one seemed oddly curious or maybe just shortsighted…
“What’s that strange fish over there?”

“Let me take a closer look…”

“Oh no, it’s a human predator!!”

2024
21
Apr

Zipper with velcro protection

Windy and rainy days are maintenance days on Pitufa. The zipper on our lazybag had broken due to UV exposure–even though we had sewn on a protective flap a while ago: the velcro pads to keep the flap down weren’t big enough, so it got blown open regularly in strong winds and that was enough UV exposure to make the plastic of the zipper brittle.
We took down the lazybag before the onset of the squally weather and spent two days on the project: the hardest part was getting off the old zipper and velcro (about 8 metres of tightly stitched tenara double seam), then 4 metres of zipper left, 4 metres right and the same for the velcro–we couldn’t have done it without Miss Pfaff, our sturdy sewing machine…
Now the lazybag’s back on, the mainsail’s up as well and we’re ready to go!

2024
17
Apr

Tricky navigation

We love Ovalau and its lively lagoon, but its shape makes sitting out strong winds rather tricky: it’s oval (hence the name maybe ;-) , there are no motu on the outer reef to hide behind, the few bays on the eastern side are all open to the east and southeast (where the prevailing winds blow from) and there’s no connection between the lagoon on the eastern side and the protected waters on the western side–if you want to get there you have to sail/motor all around the northern end of the island.

We sat out the last southeasterly on the western side of the island, but this time we didn’t want to do so many miles back and forth again. Instead we went into the lagoon on the southern side of the island, thinking that the wide outer reef there would give us enough protection. Unfortunately lots of chop came over the reef at high tide (we should have known better), so we tried plan B instead: making our way into a protected little hole, hidden behind a maze of reefs.

We found good satellite imagery for the area, but in reality the water is very murky, making navigation risky. We slowly navigated through the narrow channels with the reefs lurking left and right, but at noon on a sunny day Christian as look-out on the bow could just make them out, we safely made it in and were rewarded with calm waters and beautiful views!

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