Pitufa.at

Ever since we’ve arrived in Hanamoenoa, the northernmost bay on the western side of Tahuata, it’s been pouring down. And the forecast doesn’t look much different for the next couple of days. Not much fun, but o.k. to get some work done.

After our successful fruit and veggie raid in Hapatoni, we now have to use up all the all too quickly ripening fruit to stay ahead of rot and decay. Yesterday we had banana-mango-salad for lunch, a banana smoothie in the afternoon, breadfruit curry for dinner and banana daiquiris as a dessert Today the Aranui (a combined caro-passenger vessel) stopped in Vaitahu–the whole village prepares for this big event that takes place every three weeks. From dusk on barges transport goods to the quay–unloading the barrels and grates’s quite an adventurous undertaking with high swell lifting the barge and breaking on the quay. At 7.30 the tourists were shipped ashore where they (and we trailing along) were welcomed with flowers. They then attended a special sung mass and strolled through the stands with local handicraft and some snacks. Around noon the Aranui leaves and the village drops back into its usual, sleepy state.

This morning we had coffee at 4.30 and lifted the anchor at 5.20 to make sure that we’d make it to our next destination during daylight. As Fatu Hiva was still towering behind us, we could already see the silhouette of the next island 45 miles ahead of us. Despite the light wind (only between 10 and 14 knots) Pitufa sailed steady 5-6 knots in the calm seas and we reached the southern cape of Tahuata around noon. The only downside of this otherwise perfect sail was that we didn’t catch a fish… Tahuata’s not quite as high as Fatu Hiva, but it also features steep, volcanic slopes and palm covered valleys. We anchored in the Baie Hana Tefau which isn’t quite as scenic as the one we’ve just left behind, but we’re the only yacht here and the village is on the other side of the bay, so it’s nice and quiet here without the busy traffic we got used to in the Baie des Vierges. Leeloo got up on deck as soon as she heard the anchor, checked out the remote bay and grinned broadly–no ne ighbours mean no visitors

We reached Fatu Hiva around 3 o’clock this morning, waited outside the bay for the first morning light and entered the bay on the western side. The island’s absolutely spectacular: steep, volcanic mountains and lush tropical vegetation. We now anchor in the only good anchorage on the little island: the Baie des Vierges (Virgin’s Bay). It’s said to originally have been called Baie des Verges (Penis Bay), which the catholic missionaries later on change to the chaste Vierges (virgins)… Looking at the volcanic turrets behind the little village it’s clear what inspired the first name. The view around us is incredible: green, pleated hills with high coconut palms, sheer volcanic cliffs meet the water like in a fjord. The higher mountains behind the bay are covered in a dense cloud–it’s already rained twice since we’ve arrived and several waterfalls drop from the cliffs. Sorry, it’ll take a while until we can post pictures, as there’s no internet connection on the whole island… The anchorage is very deep (we’ve anchored in 24 metres) and more crowded than expected (8 other boats; during high season earlier in the year it’s packed here) and a bit rolly, but after the rough passage it feels calm enough. Our post-passage-ritual includes a bottle of sparkling wine, which knocked us out of our socks after a week without alcohol (especially as we had it at 7 o’clock with breakfast), so we haven’t explored yet, but are looking forward to going hiking, see the waterfalls, etc.

We are just 40nm away from Fatu Hiva, so we will arrive early morning but it looks like it’s going to be an annoying night with lots of squalls (had thme all afternoon) and northerly wind… +++++++++++ Wir sind nur noch 40 nm von Fatu Hiva entfernt und werden morgen frueh ankommmen aber es sieht nach einer nervigen Nacht aus mit vielen Boeenschauern (so wars schon den ganzen Nachmittag) und Wind auf die Nase…

We caught another Tuna this morning and as we don’t have a freezer we put it into jars (cutting up the fish, frying it slightly, putting everything into jars and and after 40 mins in the pressure cooker you’ve got your selfmade canned tuna). In 25kn of winds on a wildly slingering boat this is not an easy task. 275nm to go. +++++++++++++ Heute Morgen haben wir noch einen Thunfisch gefangen und da wir keine Gefriertruhe haben kochen wir den Fisch ein (Fisch schneiden, kurz anbraten, in Glaeser fuellen und nach 40 min im Kelomat hat man selbstgemachten Konserven-Thunfisch). Bei 25kn Wind und einem wild schaukelnden Boot keine leichte Aufgabe. Noch 275 Seemeilen.

Pitufa is rolling almost unbearably in those waves following from 150 degrees, nevertheless we managed to catch a small tuna (or a big mackarel) and bake a banana cake 415 nm to go.++++++++++++ Pitufa rollt zwar unertraeglich in diesen schraeg von hinten durchwalzenden Wellen, dennoch haben wir es geschafft, endlich wieder einmal einen Fisch zu fangen (kleiner Thunfissch oder grosse Makrele) und einen Bananenkuchen zu backen Noch 415 Seemeilen.

This morning the wind got a bit lighter, but now it’s picked up again to about 20 to 25 knots and Pitufa’s running along with over 6 knots–sailing as good as it gets (even though we still can’t wait to arrive ) All the Panamanian food and booze in Pitufas lockers don’t exactly help her along, but then cruising’s much more about good life in bays than fast sailing The southerly wind’s still chilly, but we enjoy the sunny skies. 540 miles to go! ++++++++++++ Heute Morgen wurde der Wind ein wenig leichter, aber jetzt blaest es wieder mit 20 bis 25 Knoten und Pitufa segelt mit etwa 6 Knoten dahin – Segeln von seiner besten Seite (wir koennens trotzdem nicht erwarten anzukommen ) Die Riesenmengen panamesischen Proviants in Pitufas Kastln helfen beim Segeln nicht gerade, aber beim Cruisen gehts auch viel eher darum, das Leben in Buchten zu geniessen, als schnell zu segeln Der suedliche Wind ist immer noch kuehl, aber wir geniessen den blauen Himmel. Noch 540 Seemeilen!

Last night we had a few squalls moving through, they brought just a slight accelaration in wind (about 20 knots), but lots of rain. Fortunately we finished a new side-cloth for the bimini before sailing off and it keeps rain and spray perfectly out when the wind is on the beam. A dry cockpit’s so much more comfy. Today the wind has shifted more southerly so now we’re sailing downwind (our favourite course) in sunny, but still cool weather. Leeloo’s still seasick, but ok as long as she gets a drop of Stugeron every 8 hours. She just sleeps a lot and is really ravenous whenever she wakes up. The human crew doesn’t get easily seasick, but we’re also taking a few drops, just to be on the safe side. We suffer from the same side effect as Leeloo though and attack the passage-snack box during the nightwatches. +++++++++++++ Letzte Nacht sind ein paar Boeenschauer ueber uns druebergezogen, sie haben aber nur eine leichte Windbeschleunigung (etwa 20 Knoten), dafuer viel Regen gebracht. Gluecklicherweise haben wir neue Seitenteile fuers Bimini gemacht, bevor wir losgesegelt sind und diese halten Regen und Gischt ab, wenn der Wind von der Seite kommt. Ein trockenes Cockpit ist viel gemuetlicher. Heute kommt der Wind aus Sueden und somit sind wir auf einem Vorwindkurs (unser Lieblingskurs) in sonnigem, aber immer noch kuehlem Wetter. Leeloo ist noch immer seekrank, aber ok, solange sie alle 8 Stunden ein Tropferl Stugeron bekommt. Sie schlaeft halt viel und hat einen Mordshunger wenn immer sie aufwacht. Die menschliche Crew wird nicht so leicht seekrank, aber wir nehmen vorsichtshalber auch ein paar Tropfen. Wir leiden unter der gleichen Nebenwirkung wie Leeloo und attackieren die Ueberfahrtssnackbox waehrend der Nachtwachen.

At noon we left our anchorage off Taravai and are now sailing north in a light wind and calm seas. The Gambier islands are still only a few miles south of us, but they’ve already disappeared in a black rain cloud, while ahead the skies are blue Unfortunately no fish was tempted by our lure yet, so today’s supper was green bean and manioc soup (just right in the cold temperatures). The thermos is filled up with boiling water, because the nightwatch will be glad to have hot tea or cacao… ++++++++++++++++++ Heute Mittag haben wir die Ankerbucht vor Taravai verlassen und segeln jetzt bei leichtem Wind und ruhiger See nordwaerts. Die Gambier Inseln liegen immer noch nur wenige Meilen suedlich von uns, aber sie sind schon in einer schwarzen Regenwolken verschwunden, voraus ist der Himmel aber blau Leider hat unser Koeder noch keinen Fisch angelockt, somit war das heutige Abendessen eine Manioc-Fisolen Suppe (grad das richtige bei den kalten Temperaturen). Die Thermoskanne ist mit kochendem Wasser gefuellt, denn die Nachtwachen werden froh um heissen Tee oder Kakao sein…