Pitufa.at

During the last few days it got uncomfortable in the bays of Tahuata, first it poured down for days and the wind picked up and the easterly swell somehow made it into the bays on the western side. Pitufa rocked and rolled, so yesterday we decided to check out a bay just a few miles north on the northcoast of Hiva Oa, the neighbouring island of Tahuata. Rounding the northern cape of Hiva Oa we had winds of 30 knots and waves against us. When we got to the spectacular canyon-like bay Hanamenu the wind and high waves plus whitecaps were pressed into the deeply indented anchorage like into a funnel. No way we could anchor there.
Instead we sailed on to the biggest island of the Marquesas: Nuku Hiva, located about 80 nm further north. We had a bumpy and fast sail in the strong winds and reached the bay of Taiohae with the main village of the island far too early in the morning. We had to heave to for 2 hours with Pitufa pitching on high swell in 30 knots of winds. At dawn we headed into the huge, wide bay. Unfortunately the swell enters here as well and we couldn’t just anchor and have a rest, but had to bring out a stern anchor to keep Pitufa’s aligned to the swell. Now we’re lifted high up whenever a high sea goes through, but at least we can’t roll. The surrounding island and the town look nice, we’ll start exploring tomorrow.

Ever since we’ve arrived in Hanamoenoa, the northernmost bay on the western side of Tahuata, it’s been pouring down. And the forecast doesn’t look much different for the next couple of days. Not much fun, but o.k. to get some work done.

After our successful fruit and veggie raid in Hapatoni, we now have to use up all the all too quickly ripening fruit to stay ahead of rot and decay. Yesterday we had banana-mango-salad for lunch, a banana smoothie in the afternoon, breadfruit curry for dinner and banana daiquiris as a dessert Today the Aranui (a combined caro-passenger vessel) stopped in Vaitahu–the whole village prepares for this big event that takes place every three weeks. From dusk on barges transport goods to the quay–unloading the barrels and grates’s quite an adventurous undertaking with high swell lifting the barge and breaking on the quay. At 7.30 the tourists were shipped ashore where they (and we trailing along) were welcomed with flowers. They then attended a special sung mass and strolled through the stands with local handicraft and some snacks. Around noon the Aranui leaves and the village drops back into its usual, sleepy state.

This morning we had coffee at 4.30 and lifted the anchor at 5.20 to make sure that we’d make it to our next destination during daylight. As Fatu Hiva was still towering behind us, we could already see the silhouette of the next island 45 miles ahead of us. Despite the light wind (only between 10 and 14 knots) Pitufa sailed steady 5-6 knots in the calm seas and we reached the southern cape of Tahuata around noon. The only downside of this otherwise perfect sail was that we didn’t catch a fish… Tahuata’s not quite as high as Fatu Hiva, but it also features steep, volcanic slopes and palm covered valleys. We anchored in the Baie Hana Tefau which isn’t quite as scenic as the one we’ve just left behind, but we’re the only yacht here and the village is on the other side of the bay, so it’s nice and quiet here without the busy traffic we got used to in the Baie des Vierges. Leeloo got up on deck as soon as she heard the anchor, checked out the remote bay and grinned broadly–no ne ighbours mean no visitors

We reached Fatu Hiva around 3 o’clock this morning, waited outside the bay for the first morning light and entered the bay on the western side. The island’s absolutely spectacular: steep, volcanic mountains and lush tropical vegetation. We now anchor in the only good anchorage on the little island: the Baie des Vierges (Virgin’s Bay). It’s said to originally have been called Baie des Verges (Penis Bay), which the catholic missionaries later on change to the chaste Vierges (virgins)… Looking at the volcanic turrets behind the little village it’s clear what inspired the first name. The view around us is incredible: green, pleated hills with high coconut palms, sheer volcanic cliffs meet the water like in a fjord. The higher mountains behind the bay are covered in a dense cloud–it’s already rained twice since we’ve arrived and several waterfalls drop from the cliffs. Sorry, it’ll take a while until we can post pictures, as there’s no internet connection on the whole island… The anchorage is very deep (we’ve anchored in 24 metres) and more crowded than expected (8 other boats; during high season earlier in the year it’s packed here) and a bit rolly, but after the rough passage it feels calm enough. Our post-passage-ritual includes a bottle of sparkling wine, which knocked us out of our socks after a week without alcohol (especially as we had it at 7 o’clock with breakfast), so we haven’t explored yet, but are looking forward to going hiking, see the waterfalls, etc.

We are just 40nm away from Fatu Hiva, so we will arrive early morning but it looks like it’s going to be an annoying night with lots of squalls (had thme all afternoon) and northerly wind… +++++++++++ Wir sind nur noch 40 nm von Fatu Hiva entfernt und werden morgen frueh ankommmen aber es sieht nach einer nervigen Nacht aus mit vielen Boeenschauern (so wars schon den ganzen Nachmittag) und Wind auf die Nase…

We caught another Tuna this morning and as we don’t have a freezer we put it into jars (cutting up the fish, frying it slightly, putting everything into jars and and after 40 mins in the pressure cooker you’ve got your selfmade canned tuna). In 25kn of winds on a wildly slingering boat this is not an easy task. 275nm to go. +++++++++++++ Heute Morgen haben wir noch einen Thunfisch gefangen und da wir keine Gefriertruhe haben kochen wir den Fisch ein (Fisch schneiden, kurz anbraten, in Glaeser fuellen und nach 40 min im Kelomat hat man selbstgemachten Konserven-Thunfisch). Bei 25kn Wind und einem wild schaukelnden Boot keine leichte Aufgabe. Noch 275 Seemeilen.

Pitufa is rolling almost unbearably in those waves following from 150 degrees, nevertheless we managed to catch a small tuna (or a big mackarel) and bake a banana cake 415 nm to go.++++++++++++ Pitufa rollt zwar unertraeglich in diesen schraeg von hinten durchwalzenden Wellen, dennoch haben wir es geschafft, endlich wieder einmal einen Fisch zu fangen (kleiner Thunfissch oder grosse Makrele) und einen Bananenkuchen zu backen Noch 415 Seemeilen.