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Shopping for basic things is really cheap in Suva, so we stocked up for the next few months, but then we got carried away with all the special, imported goodies at the posh supermarkets… With some searching there’s everything available here, even gluten-free products and smelly cheese Of course we also stocked up on boat repair/maintenance parts and then we did a last round buying… Continue reading »
As we’re staying a longer time in Fiji than most yachties, we have to renew our visa. First we got 4 months (clearance fees are about 160 USD), then we applied for an extension, which costs about 40 USD (per person), but is only valid for 2 months. After those initial months we had the choice of either getting another extension (more pricey, 290 USD… Continue reading »
It’s breadfruit season around the Pacific and we love it! When used green breadfruit tastes a bit like potato and can be used in potato dishes, but it has a creamier texture and a nutty flavour. We steam it first (takes only about 20 min), then make breadfruit fritters, tortilla espanola, salad, curries, stews etc. Yesterday I mashed freshly steamed breadfruit and mixed it with… Continue reading »
Who needs pass markers, when there’s wrecks to mark the pass? Once inside, the harbour is well protected, but not exactly pretty–and rather shallow around the yacht club… It’s a convenient place to park the boat while provisioning in Suva though!
After a week in bustling Suva we headed out for an anchorage just round the corner, out on the reef in clear water, to get away from it all and relax a bit. Or so we thought. We only had two tasks on the to-do list: changing the gear oil on the outboard and sewing a new hatch cover to replace a torn one. But… Continue reading »
We love exploring, but sometimes it’s good to just settle down in a comfy place and go into work-mode. We were in Vanua Balavu for three weeks and fell into our usual work routine–easy without distractions as there are no other cruisers here and the next village is miles away. Christian was working on an experimental set-up to make the Pitufino work with the old… Continue reading »
We couldn’t believe our ears when we heard barking ashore. Not a sound like a little yuppy dog would make, but a huge specimen, like a Saint Bernard dog… The next village is miles away, the islands are nearly impossible to climb with their overhanging shores and horribly spiky – had some lunatic abandoned his dog here? Then we heard more barking from the neighbouring… Continue reading »
The strange landscape here in Qilqila on Vanua Balavu is a result of the volcanos here on the Pacific rim: former reefs and coralheads were raised by tectonic activity and are now forming sheer cliffs and a maze of tiny islands. Why the cliffs aren’t all the same height (like on other raised atolls) seems mysterious–maybe there were different tectonic events over time… The spiky… Continue reading »
The Madden-Julian Oscillation is a weather phenomenon that travels eastwards around the globe near the equator and recurs every 30 to 60 days. It brings enhanced weather activity with clouds, rainfall, winds and an increased risk of cyclones. At the moment we are experiencing an active MJO here in the South Pacific. Cyclone Hale has affected Australia, New Caledonia and New Zealand and the grib… Continue reading »
The first times we visited Vanua Balavu’s Qilaqila Bay (Bay of Islands), we thought it was really pretty above water (mushroom islands) as well as below water (healthy reefs). Now we are back and after the slightly disappointing experiences with overfished reefs and rolly anchorages further north we REALLY appreciate the protected bay with and its biodiversity. Finally we are well rested again and can… Continue reading »
Tour operators take tourists to the waterfalls in Bouma and Lavena, but sailing down the southeastern coast of Taveuni we discovered that about a dozen more gush down from the mountains. Some we could see up the slope partly hidden in the forest, others gush from cliffs right down to the shore!
The best anchorage on the eastern side of Taveuni is certainly Vurevure Bay. It would be no good in winds from the E or SE, but now in NW conditions it’s calm and additionally we are protected from the southerly swell that is usually running and the chop that gets bent around the island. Dinghy landing is possible at the creek at the end of… Continue reading »
The Ringgold Islands were a big disappointment: rolly anchorages, overfished empty reefs and the unfriendliest locals we’ve met so far in Fiji. .. Then we stopped for a few days at the private island Matangi (good hiking and snorkeling and wonderfully friendly folks–thanks a lot for all the hospitality!) and now we’re in Taveuni. The third-largest island of Fiji gets lots of rainfall, so it… Continue reading »
We wish you all a wonderful year 2023 with lots of health, fun, energy and adventures–and of course fair winds and following seas! Keep sailing and paddling along with us on our blog