The rain stopped, the sun is out again, and we moved to another anchorage a few miles further to the West. We didn’t like the actual anchorage here since is was filled already with 17 (!) other yachts so we simply dropped anchor south of the bigger island of the Chichime Cays. We don’t like to imagine what it’s like in high season in these popular ancharages. Our place is a bit rolly, so we’ve set a stern anchor as well. In the afternoon we took our dinghy south to Dog Island and snorkeled around the freighter which was wrecked there.
Our Books
Order our books at Amazon
2012
02
Nov
2012
01
Nov
Sox on the beach
The last three days it’s been pouring down, the grey and dark weather reminds us of typical all saints day weather in Austria (fortunately it’s warmer). Rainy weather on the boat is annoying, because when being confined inside it would make sense to work on the computer or do jobs on the sewing machine, but without sun the solar panels don’t charge the batteries so we shouldn’t use too much energy either… Yesterday we got so bored that we went snorkeling in the rain, when we got home we were freezing despite of the pee-warm water, drank hot cacoa and put on socks for the first time in ages–a funny contrast: white beach, swaying palm trees and thick winter socks 
2012
29
Oct
Cruising?
The dry weather only lasted for a short while, today it’s been pouring down again. In the afternoon a huge bow emerged from the grey clouds and soon after a cruise ship anchored behind us. Apparently there’s lots around in the San Blas during dry season, but it’s the first one we spotted here. Soon after their arrival Kuna canoes paddled to the beach to display molas and then the crew started shipping passengers from the cruise ship to the island as well–everything still in torrential rainfalls. The poor “cruisaders” picked a bad day for an afternoon at the beach, but when swimming in the San Blas is on the schedule, it’s got to be done, because tomorrow they’ll be somewhere completely different . The luckier Pitufos aren’t in such a hurry and have the chance to spend some more, hopefully nicer days here.
2012
27
Oct
Western Holandes Cays
The weather turned beautiful again yesterday. It’s not just back to normal, which used to mean nice, sunny mornings but then rainy and squally afternoons, no, it’s really beautiful now. It seems Hurricane Sandy sucked away all the humid air and disposed of it further north.
After almost a week in Nargana we are now at the outer San Blas Islands again. We wanted to stay around the central part of the Holandes Cays but didn’t fancy the anchorage there–it was just too tight for our taste and also too close to mangroves, which could mean a lot of mosquitoes. So we went further west and have now a lovely spot between the two westernmost islands of the Holandes Cays. Of course we are the only boat here 
And of course we went swimming and snorkeling again and were lucky to see two huge eagle rays and another curious nurse shark. It’s good to be able to go swimming again. The water at Nargana doesn’t look inviting as it is dirty from the river estuary as well as from the people of Nargana (Kuna villages don’t have any sewer…). The last time we had the pleasure of refreshing ourselves in clear water was far up the Rio Diablo, but there the water was cool, while the surface water of the sea reminds more of a hot spa
2012
25
Oct
Hurricane Sandy
Even though we are well below the hurricane belt, the weather here is still massively affected by Hurricane Sandy. It’s been rainy for days and gusty southerly winds rattle Pitufa violently, but our anchorage at Nargana protects us well from both southerly windwaves and the high northerly swell. So we really should not complain about minor comfort issues such as splashy dinghy rides while massive destruction happens in
2012
25
Oct
Two new articles in Ocean7
The Austrian sailing magazine Ocean7 has published our articles on the Caribbean coast of Colombia and on cruising with cats on board in the current 06/12 issue.
Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Kolumbien — Land der Kontraste, OCEAN7 06 (November/Dezember) 2012.
Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Mit Leeloo um die Welt, OCEAN7 06 (November/Dezember) 2012. download PDF (in German only)
2012
24
Oct
River excursion and jungle hike
The last two days have been rainy and windy, presumably thanks to Hurricane Sandy that passed north of us, but the anchorage here in Nargana is well protected from the high swell outside. We enjoy the possibility to browse through the mini-mini-markets and have met new friends here (www.bettiedelmar.blogspot.com).
Before the weather turned nasty we used the opportunity to take the dinghy up the nearby Rio Diablo, where we saw our first crocodile and then walked along the waterpipe through the jungle. The Kuna waterpipe is a flimsy plastic tube, sometimes buried in the ground, usually just lying next to the path, occasionally it’s led on rickety branch constructions over creeks (the “bridges” for the people consist of even flimsier tree branches . Unfortunately we didn’t quite make it to the waterfall promised in the guidebook, because we decided that a 6-hour junglewalk was beyond our sporty capacities, especially as the mosquitoes make breaks virtually impossible. As soon as you stand still swarms of them descend on you… The hike was fun though and we enjoyed the chance to wash off the red mud in the clear, cold water of the river, before getting back into the dinghy.
2012
23
Oct
Photos of the San Blas Islands
Uploading the new photo gallery took several attempts and a lot of patience over the last two days. Finally, here it is:
Kuna Yala -- the San Blas Islands
In September and October 2012 we visited the palm-covered islands of Kuna Yala, an autonomous region in Panama, where the Kuna indios live in their traditional villages.
(50 photos)
2012
21
Oct
Nargana
After a wonderful week of relaxing and snorkeling at Coco Banderos, we moved to the nearby town of Nargana to buy some fresh veggies, some other groceries and gasoline. And of course, after a really long time, to connect to the internet again (hopefully tomorrow at the school. If the connection is good enough, we’ll upload a new picture gallery.) Nargana is a bigger Kuna town and even has a airport. The Kuna here are less traditional (e.g., they have electricity) as in other villages we have visitted but it’s a nice and neat place.
++++++++++++++++++
Nach einer wundervollen Woche Relaxen und Schnorcheln bei den Coco Banderos sind wir nun zum nahegelegenen Staedtchen Nargana weitergefahren. Wir wollen frisches Gemuese und andere Lebensmittel aufstocken und Benzin besorgen. Und natuerlich wieder einmal ins Internet (hoffentlich morgen bei der Schule. Falls die Verbindung gut genug ist, werden wir neue Fotos hochladen.) Nargana ist ein groesseres Kuna-Staedtchen und hat sogar einen Flughafen. Die Kuna hier leben weniger traditionell (es gibt z.B. Strom) als in anderen Doerfern, die wir besucht haben, aber wir finden es hier nett und freundlich.
2012
13
Oct
Wonderful Coco Banderos
Yesterday we finally managed to move to another anchorage. The rainy weather the last few days wasn’t encouraging reef navigation. We are glad we used the sunny spell as we are now anchored in the prettiest place we have been so far here in Kuna Yala. We are the only boat here, swaying gently in a deep blue canal surrounded by 3 little islets and coral reefs that glitter in all shades between turquoise, green and light brown. The snorkeling is wonderful in the clear water, we’ve already taken Leeloo on an excursion to the tiniest island (just a white sandbar with a few palmtrees), but she wasn’t as excited as we are and insisted on returning to Pitufa after a few minutes.
As the canal is rather deep with limited swinging room because of the near reefs we’ve experimented for the first time with a Bahamian mooring: our main anchor and another anchor brought out astern, both chain and line connected on the bow, so that Pitufa can’t swing far, but can always turn her bow into the wind.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Gestern haben wir’s endlich zum naechsten Ankerplatz geschafft. Das regnerische Wetter in den letzten Tagen war Riffnavigation nicht gerade foerderlich… Wir sind froh, dass wir die Sonnenstrahlen genutzt haben, weil wir jetzt am bis jetzt huebschesten Ort in Kuna Yala ankern. Wir sind das einzige Boot hier, schaukeln friedlich in einem tiefblauen Kanal umgeben von 3 kleinen Inselchen und Korallenriffen, die in allen Nuancen zwischen tuerkis, gruen und hellbraun glitzern. Schnorcheln im klaren Wasser ist super, wir haben Leeloo schon auf einen (M)ausflug zum kleinsten Inselchen mitgenommen (nur eine weisse Sandbank mit wenigen Palmen drauf), aber sie war nicht so begeistert wie wir und wollte schon nach wenigen Minuten wieder zurueck zu Pitufa.
Nachdem der Kanal ziemlich tief ist, aber wegen den umgebenden Riffen wenig Raum zum Schwojen bietet, haben wir mit einer Bahamian Mooring experimentiert: die Ketten von unsem Hauptanker und einem weiteren Anker hinter dem Heck sind an Pitufas Bug verbunden, sodass sie nicht weit schwojt, aber den Bug in den Wind drehen kann.
2012
07
Oct
Invasion
We’re still in Cayo Holandes enjoying the snorkeling again after a few rainy and stormy days. The anchorage was quiet all week long, but Friday evening suddenly a fleet of powerboats invaded. They had all their lights on (of course also the flashy underwater lights), played loud music and had parties going on with white dressed crew members as waiters. We sat slightly jittery in the middle of this cacophony. In the morning they disappeared as quickly as they had shown up, leaving the anchorage to the few sailing boats only to reappear in the evening. Now we know how the “rich and beautiful” Panamanians spend their weekends
++++++++++++++++++++
Wir sind immer noch in Cayo Holandes und geniessen das Schnorcheln nach einigen stuermischen Regentagen. Die Ankerbucht ist ganz Woche ueber ruhig, aber am Freitag Abend gab es ploetzlich eine Invasion von Motoryachten. Sie drehten alle ihre Lichter auf (natuerlich auch die coolen Unterwasserlichter), spielten laute Musik und schmissen Parties mit weissgekleideten Crewmitgliedern als Kellner. Wir sassen leicht verdattert inmitten dieser Kakophonie. Am Morgen verschwanden sie genauso schnell wieder, wie sie aufgetaucht waren und ueberliessen die Bucht den wenigen Segelbooten. Am Abend tauchten sie wieder auf und das Spiel begann von vorne. Jetzt wissen wir, wie die “Reichen und Schoenen” Panamas ihre Wochenenden verbringen
2012
02
Oct
Holandes Cays
Yesterday we moved to one of the most popular anchorages in the San Blas islands: the Holandes Cays. A wide, deep entrance, protection from all sides by islets and reefs, a beautiful setting and clear water–no wonder this place is full with boats in the high season. Fortunately now is low season and so there are only around 10 other boats in our neighbourhood.
We finally caught up with Sue and Andy from Spruce. It’s nice to hang out with friends again after so many remote anchorages.
+++++++++++++++++++++
Gestern sind wir zu einem der populaersten Ankerplaetze der San Blas Inseln weitergefahren: die Holandes Cays. Ein breiter tiefer Kanal, Schutz von allen Richtungen durch viele kleine Inselchen und Riffe, ein wunderschoenes Panorama und klares Wasser — kein Wunder dass dieser Ort in der Hochsaison voll mit Booten ist. Gluecklicherweise ist jetzt nicht Hochsaison es sind lediglich nur um die 10 Boote in unserer Naehe.
Wir haben uns hier wieder mit Sue und Andy von Spruce getroffen. Nach so vielen abgelegenen und einsamen Ankerplaetzen geniessen wir jetzt die Gesellschaft mit Freunden wieder.
2012
30
Sep
Isla Puyadas
We’re anchored in front of a tiny island a few miles north of Isla Tigre. We wanted to anchor at Niadup at the Devil Cays, but when we were approaching a thunderstorm came up and the charts were again horribly inaccurate, so we didn’t dare entering. Today was almost no swell, so we have it smooth here at Isla Puyadas as well (unless another thunderstorm with southerly winds comes along).
2012
27
Sep
Snug as a Bug
Todays trip from Tupile to Snug Harbour was straightforward and without complications. The water is finally clear again (near the mainland the many rivers discharge lots of mud and sand into the sea), which is, next to good light, the second important requirement for eye-ball navigation. In the morning is was nicely sunny, but when we entered the new anchorage a thunderstorm cloud built up hiding the sun. Luckily we got some more waypoints from Sue and Andy and the entrance was easy.
Though called ‘Snug harbour’, it’s of course not a real harbour, but it’s a nice, well protected anchorage. The bay received its name from the English schooners that stopped here in the days of sailing merchant ships. It’s incredible how sailors in these times managed to navigate in this area peppered with reefs, without GPS, proper charts, often cloudy skies that make celestial navigation impossible, currents that make dead reckoning hard, etc. while we nearly shit ourselves even with the help of modern navigation devices.
The area here with its fickle winds and plentiful anchorages often reminds us of Croatia with its many islands and bays (with the huge difference that Croatia has wonderful charts and every second rock has a lighthouse on top…) and just like in the Med we’re plagued by doubts. In the Med we always wondered how we’d survive on the Atlantic when little storms there already frightened us. Now we doubt our ability to bring up the nerves to navigate through the reefs of the Tuamotus… The Atlantic with its steady trade winds turned out to be a positive suprise, let’s hope that the Pacific will also be kind to us.
++++++++++++++++++++++++
Der heutige Abschnitt von Tupile nach Snug Harbour verlief komplikationsfrei. Das Wasser ist endlich wieder klar (nahe am Festland ist das Wasser wegen der vielen Fluesse, die Schlamm und Sand ins Meer tragen trueb), eine der zwei Voraussetzungen fuer “Eyeball-Navigation” (Navigieren nach Sicht). Am Morgen war es schoen sonnig, doch als wir uns der Einfahrt zur Ankerbucht naeherten, verdeckte eine dicke Gewitterwolke die Sonne. Gluecklicherweise hatten wir wiederum Wegpunkte von Sue und Andy und somit war die Einfahrt kein Problem.
Obwohl es hier “Snug Harbour” heisst, gibt es keinen Hafen, sondern es handelt sich um eine rundherum geschuetzte Ankerbucht. Die Bucht wurde von den englischen Schonern benannt, die hier zur Zeit der Handelschiffe unter Segeln Halt machten. Es ist unglaublich, wie die Seeleute in dieser Zeit es geschafft haben, in dieser mit Riffen gespickten Gegend zu navigieren und war ganz ohne die Hilfe von GPS, guten Karten, bei oft wolkigem Himmel, der Astronavigation unmoeglich macht, mit Stroemungen, die das Abschaetzen der Position schwierig machen , etc. waehrend wir uns fast anscheissen, obwohl wir alle modernene Navigationshilfen an Bord haben.
Die Gegend hier mit ihren unstetitgen Winden und unzaehligen Ankerplaetzen erinnert uns oft an Kroatien mit seinen vielen Buchten und Inseln (mit dem riesigen Unterschied, dass Kroatien wunderbares Kartenmaterial hat und auf jedem zweiten Felsen ein Leuchtturm steht…) und genau wie im Mittelmeer plagen uns auch jetzt Zweifel. Im Mittelmeer fragten wir uns immer, wie wir auf dem Atlantik ueberleben sollten, wenn uns schon dort kleine Stuerme aus der Fassung brachten. Jetzt zweifeln wir, ob wir den Nerv aufbringen werden, durch die Tuamotus zu navigieren… Der Atlantik mit seinem stetigen Passat war eine positive Ueberraschung, hoffen wir, dass auch der Pazifik nett zu uns sein wird.
2012
26
Sep
Advanced Course in Eyeball Navigation
Today’s task was to motor the 2.8 miles from Isla Mono to San Ignacio de Tupile. Sounds ridiculously easy, but navigating through the reefs in somewhat murky water took us 2 hours and all our nerves. Birgit at the helm tried to look at the dephtsounder, the chartplotter in the cockpit (with a completely wrong chart, but showing heading and speed) and the more accurate chart on the laptop down the companionway at the same time, while I stood on the railing on the pullpit looking out for changes in watercolour indicating reefs. The reefs here come almost vertically up, in combination with murky water that leaves almost no time to react.
With the help of waypoints from Sue and Andy (SY Spruce) who were here 2 weeks before and the Eric Bauhaus guide we safely made it to our anchorage and will now have to lie down for a bit to recuperate .
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Die Aufgabe fuer den heutigen Tag lautete die 2,8 Meilen von Isla Mono nach San Ignacio de Tupile zu motoren. Klingt laecherlich einfach, aber das Navigieren durch die Riffe in ziemlich truebem Wasser kostete uns 2 Stunden und alle Nerven. Birgit am Steuer versuchte gleichzeitig das Echolot, den Kartenplotter im Cockpit (mit einer voellig falschen Karte, aber Angaben zu Kurs und Geschwindigkeit) und die akkuratere Karte am Laptop unter Deck im Auge zu behalten, waehrend ich auf der Reling am Bug stand und nach Farbveraenderungen Ausschau hielt, die auf Riffe hinweisen koennten. Die Riffe hier kommen fast senkrecht in die Hoehe, in Kombination mit trueben Wasser bleibt fast keine Zeit zu reagieren.
Mit der Hilfe von Wegpunkten von Sue und Andy (SY Spruce), die 2 Wochen vorher hier waren und dem Eric Bauhaus Guide haben wir es sicher bis zum naechsten Ankerplatz geschafft und muessen uns jetzt eine Runde hinhauen um uns wieder zu fangen .