Today we moved a few bays further east to St. Davids Habour. We didn’t bother hoisting any sails and motored the 6 miles upwind (we had to run the watermaker anyway). Navigating Grenada’s southern coast is somewhat scary because there are reefs everywhere. The anchorage is a bit rolly so we dropped also a stern anchor to keep us aligned to the swell. We then went snorkelling and discovered that our new pet has accompanied us all the way and still lives on Pitufa’s belly. Here is a picture of him (her?) eating catfood:
2012
14
Apr
St. David’s Habour
2012
13
Apr
Mount Qua Qua
We wanted to hike up Mount Qua Qua, partly because Lonely Planet recommends it and partly because of the cool name… So we took a minibus up to Grand Etang Forest Reserve only to discover that dozens of buses from a cruise ship had arrived before us. Stalls had popped up because of them, musicians, traditionally “decorated” ladies–far from the peaceful area we had been looking forward to. First we were thinking of immediately going back to St. George, but then went on to the trail up Mt. Qua Qua. It turned out to be a lovely and even lonely walk–it seems “cruzaders” only make 10-minute walks around the parking space. The hike up Mt. Qua Qua took us about 2 hours and rewarded us with stunning views over the Grand Etang crater lake and to both the west and the east coast of Grenada.
2012
12
Apr
A new pet
Today we went to the veggie market and then the fishmarket in St. George. However, we forgot two basic things you should bring to an island fishmarket: a bag (you don’t want the leaky ones you’re given there) and small change (the change you get there might well be covered in fishblood ). Anyway, right after we got back Christian did some belly-scraping (not his own, but Pitufa’s, which is full of barnacles) in the company of our new pet: a slender suckerfish that has been living under our boat for the past few days. He’s about 60 cm long, very curious and not shy at all. He catches the barnacles right from under our hands while scraping–slightly scary considering that 4 fingers would easily fit into his broad mouth … But he’s cute and friendly, feeding on everything we throw over board. He loves catfood leftovers, freaked out when I cleaned the tuna from the market, but spit out the rice I served with it
2012
10
Apr
Busy pitufos
We’re still in Prickly Bay, doing lots of jobs on the boat and I’m also working as a teleworker on an e-learning program for a company in Graz. It’s just the right time for earning some extra money for the kitty box–we’ve already spent two monthly budgets on spare parts for Pitufa and we’ll soon have to haul her out to do a new anti-fouling and some paint jobs. The new shaft and rudder for our hydrovane Wayne Vaney arrived at the airport last Thursday, spent a relaxed Easter-weekend in the local custom’s warehouse, but today we managed to get hold of the parts.
Prickly Bay is a bustling anchorage and a good place to catch up with old friends and meeting new people. We’re always eager to listen to other cruiser’s experiences, collecting info on cruising areas and ideas for interesting places to visit.
2012
05
Apr
Friendly Grenada
Our guests have left this morning–it’ll take them 24 hours to get back home… We had a really good time: we visited the Seven Sisters Falls in the rainforesty interior of Grenada, tasted loads of delicious dishes at Fish Friday in Gouyave, went sightseeing in St. George and spent a few relaxing days anchored off Calvigny Island. Grenada is great to get around, cheap minibuses take you anywhere (without the waiting times we got used to in the Cape Verdes, Suriname and Tobago), it’s safe and people are friendly and welcoming wherever you go.
2012
24
Mar
Visitors coming
We’re still in Prickly Bay (Grenada) installing newly acquired gadgets. Today we bought yet another inverter–this ends a 3 month power-tool-free period on Pitufa (even though we managed to do all kinds of repairs during that time using manual drills, manual saws, etc. we even managed to solder by heating up the soldering iron on a blow torch ). Additionally we’re doing a thorough spring-clean, partly because it’s spring and partly because tomorrow my Mom and my brother + girlfriend will arrive here
2012
21
Mar
Grenada
We reached Grenada yesterday after a wonderfully comfortable night sail with light winds and calm seas. We were quite shocked by our first impression of Prickly Bay in the South of Grenada–more than a hundred yachts in one bay… We found a quiet spot though, went to the big chandlery and spent a whole month of our budget on presents for Pitufa
2012
17
Mar
The liferaft is back!
We’ve spent the last 2 weeks waiting for our liferaft (remember our encounter with the fishing boat in Suriname?) to be serviced. We had to ship it to Trinidad for that and it disappeared unaccountably on the way for a week, which left us quite worried and stuck in the rolly anchorage in Store Bay. Today it finally got back from the service station, so now we’re free to head on (after clearing out with immigration and customs in Scarborough) on Monday.
2012
14
Mar
Photos of Tobago
We updated our photo album today and added a gallery of Tobago.
Tobago
We like this island for its lonely beaches and lush interior even though we had lousy weather and rolly anchorages. February and March 2012.
(40 photos)
2012
09
Mar
Store Bay, Tobago
We arrived last weekend in this popular anchorage in the southwestern corner of Tobago. Even though the pilot calls it “protected and calm” we’ve been rolling and pitching just like in the other spots. According to the locals the weather is extraordinarily rough and rainy for this time of the year.
We like Tobago, but it doesn’t seem to like us…
Yesterday we made a trip around the island in a rental car (first time on our trip, usually we rely on buses or other public transport) and discovered that the interior of Tobago is just as beautiful as the coast. There are few tourists around, even on the most beautiful beaches only a handful of people enjoy the golden sand and clear water. There’s small guesthouses everywhere, a few beach bars, but no mass tourism.
2012
04
Mar
Englishman’s Bay
We spent another few days in Charlotteville, but it was pouring down most of the time and on a boat constant rain is really tedious. You cannot open any hatches, the battery is drained when the solar panels don’t work, etc. When it finally cleared up we sailed a few miles further to Englishman’s Bay. This bay looks like on a postcard: a golden beach, black rocks, jungle all around–just gorgeous. We were the only boat there As we’d heard that there had been incidents with nightly robberies we locked ourselves up and put up trip wires with beercan alarms. Of course nothing happened
2012
27
Feb
Pretty northern coast of Tobago
We’re still in Charlotteville in the North of Tobago waiting for the swell to get lower, because our next planned anchorages (Bloody Bay and Englishman’s Bay) are less protected than Pirate’s Bay. Even in this big bay the swell makes living aboard Pitufa a bit uncomfortable, especially Leeloo hates it when the boat is rolling. Additionally the inverter has broken down, that means no power tools can be used on the boat and all maintenance/upgrade projects are resting at the moment. We were quite annoyed at the beginning, but now we actually enjoy this involuntary idleness, feeling like tourists on holidays
We went to see the carnival in Scarborough last week (colourful, loud, chaotic), did some hiking in the surroundings of the bay (beautiful rainforest, but quite sweaty), a BBQ on the beach and snorkeling.
2012
18
Feb
Charlotteville, Tobago
Tobago has a turbulent history, colonial powers changed constantly and it was a hiding place for pirates and buccaneers. We’re anchored in Pirate’s Bay at the moment and the neighbouring bay is called Bloody Bay… Nowadays it’s peaceful here, only a few tourists are around in the sleepy little town of Charlotteville, the people are friendly and the pace of life is very relaxed. The water in the bay shimmers in all shades of green and the bay is surrounded by densely wooded hills–a really pretty place.
2012
14
Feb
Land ahoy!
The island of Tobago appears out of the haze 25 miles ahead of us. The passage from Suriname took us three and a half days with daily runs of 136, 132, and 145 nautical miles. The Guyana current helped with a steady knot all the way up. The first two days were pleasant with flat seas and light winds, but strong enough to push Pitufa ahead. Last night and today’s morning were somewhat rough and squally. Caribbean, here we are!
2012
13
Feb
Wayne Vaney back on duty
With Wayne Vaney back on duty, passage-making is finally delightful again. With the wind vane steering, the human crew is free to read, eat, and nap.