Pitufa.at

When we left Cagliari on Sardinia, we were not quite sure where we would sail next. We considered the Balearic Islands and the mainland of Spain. Also, we were not fully provisioned for a longer passage because we had to wait out the Mistral that was blowing with up to 40 kn while at anchor in Cagliari with the dinghi already deflated and tied down on deck. So we started the passage without much stock of fruits, veggies and fresh bread on Wednesday, Aug. 10th (however, we had lots of cans etc. on board so we always managed to cook fancy dinners…).

For the first three days, the wind was either highly variable, very light, or not there at all. Not even the blister was of much help. So we had to use the engine a lot. From Friday, Aug. 12th, evening on, however, we got relatively constant, favorable easterly winds.
This allowed convenient sailing, most of the time we sailed dead-downwind, wing and wing.

After being becalmed so often we couldn’t let this opportunity for fair winds pass, and the prospect of visiting another touristy place like Mallorca or Southern Spain didn’t seem very appealing anyway. So we continued towards Gibraltar. After noticing that the Spanish exclave Melilla was on our way, we spontaneously decided on a stop in Africa. Today in the morning, after 670 nm and 8 days at sea we reached Melilla, a Spanish exclave in Morocco.

We’re glad to get some rest after the many nightwatches, but Leeloo doesn’t fancy marinas with their strange people and noise. She prefers sailing passages when she can be sure that everything around is free of potentially dangerous persons (to her that means everybody except us). By now she’s grown accustomed to life on board again, has found her sealegs and is no longer afraid of high waves.

Like usually when we let the wind decide on destinations it seems we have been lucky choosing Melilla. Our first marina after Pula is really cheap (6 Euros a day compared to 140 on the Liparian islands…) and Melilla is an interesting town. We’ll explore the historic centre tonight and in the following days letting the wind decide when the journey will go on.

… not sailing-wise, though, we are making good progress. However, a clogged toilet can ruin a day.

In the Med you usually get no wind or too much of it. At the moment we have quite a lot and Pitufa is on her way west, a bit rough though.

Finally favourable easterly winds have arrived and we’re making good progress.

We left Sardinia on Wednesday with a promising weather forecast after we had to wait out a northwesterly gale that lasted for several days in Cagliary, but unfortunately, the wind died down soon (as usually…) and left us in a high swell, so we had to motor for the entire Thursday. Now we are waiting 60 nm off the coast of Algeria for an easterly breeze to carry us west. The destination of this passage remains open, it may be Almeria on the Spanish coast or Melilla, a Spanish enclave on the coast of Morocco.

Sardinia is great for daysailing. Today we’ve stopped by in Cagliari. Connected to someone’s home internet while waiting for the laundry to finish… Tomorrow some sightseeing.

Today we reached the southern tip of Sardinia after 175 nautical miles and 3 days. This leg has been quite nice, but it’s weird how Pitufa’s movements seem to be connected directly to the crew’s mood. Pitufa rolls in high seas while the wind dies down: crew frustrated—why are we doing this? Pitufa stays motionless and becalmed: Crew bored—we’ll never make it through the Med this way. Pitufa heels over in gusts that change directions constantly while lightning lights the sky: Crew insecure—how will we be doing on the Atlantic? Pitufa rushes ahead with 5 knots like on rails: Crew happy—sailing is pure bliss, have we ever doubted this?

Yesterday we spotted fish accompanying us. First 2 then 5 unidentified fish objects (wikipedia couldn’t really help, something between tuna and mackerel. Roughly 40 cm long, rather high, yellow backfins, dark vertical stripes) swam happily behind Pitufa, biting into the security line of the rudder of the hydrovane and generally having a good time. Our reaction “Wow, they’re so sweet, just look at the cute stripes on his tummy!” explains why we still haven’t bought fishing gear. Sooner or later we’ll have to develop bloodthirst while watching such fishies

We’ve dropped anchor in a bay next to a marina and a lot of tourism. The people lie on the sandy beach like sardinias

While we were anchored in Vulcano’s Porto di Levante to seek shelter from gusty westerly winds (up to 35 knots), we met Aylin and Goeran from Cantana 3, a Hallberg Rassy 35 under Swedish flag (www.cantana3.com). Those two are the first real cruisers we have met since our departure. Goeran made a 6-year circumnavigation starting in 1993 and currently they are exploring Italy. It was very interesting for us chatting with them about their experiences all over the world.

We left Vulcano on Tuesday 11:00am with a westerly breeze that lifted us conveniently over the still considerable swell. At least for the first 15 nautical miles. Then this breeze faded away and left us in the swell without any pressure in the sails. The rolling and pitching was so horrible that we were forced to use the engine for about 10 hours before arriving in Cefalu on Sicilly. Under engine Pitufa was a bit more stable again, but unfortunately the rumbling of the engine is so loud under deck, that the person off watch can’t find much sleep anyway… At last we could find some sleep in this anchorage well protected by a long breakwater.

Protected from all directions but east, we woke up to face easterly winds carrying already choppy whitecaps into the anchorage. The plan to go to town for some sightseeing and shopping had to be canceled. We lifted anchor and set course for the island of Ustica under full sail.

The 60 miles sailing to Ustica, an island 30 miles North of Palermo, was relatively easy. Except for about two hours at night when we were becalmed, we had favorable winds. First from the east, turning south. Then from the north, turning east again.
We arrived at Ustica in the morning and tied onto a buoy, which wasn’t a simple operation in the confused swell.

Now we hope for a few days of diving and exploring the island – if the wind is gracious enough to allow it , because there aren’t many protected anchorages around the island. A few metres away from shore it’s still 50 metres deep and almost the only possibility to stay is to tie to a buoy on the leeward side of the island (which changes constantly).

The wind has been blowing from the west (that’s where we want to go) with 20-30 knots for some days now, so we spend more time than planned at Vulcano.

On the island of Salina with its green hills and colorful old houses in the town, we’ve finally discovered the charm of Sicilly. Never mind the rolling anchorage…