Fortunately cyclone Mal is remaining only cat 2 and passing without directly hitting islands. Even though it’s a small and rather weak system, the wave forecast on windy looks scary enough (see below).
The western side of Viti Levu will get some wind and there’s already flooding from the heavy rain ashore… Here in Suva no strong winds are predicted and the rain has passed, so we went to town to do some shopping today–business as usual everywhere.
The people on the islands in the Lau were waiting for rain with their water tanks almost empty, so it’s good news for them that the rain has finally arrived!
Let’s hope we won’t get anything worse than Mal this season (“mal” means bad in Spanish, linguistic pun intended )
2023
14
Nov
Fortunately only category 2
2023
12
Nov
Strong winds warning
The European forecast model (ECMWF) quite often forecasts the opposite of the American model (GFS) for a week or so ahead, but sometimes even until the last day. Comparing we have found that the European model is often more accurate (at least for our area here). Today they agree for a change that something will hit Fiji on Tuesday–just where exactly and how strong remains to be seen:
ECMWF left, GFS on the right side.
We’re safely tugged in on a cyclone mooring in the sheltered bay of Lami located within the harbour of Suva and busy with indoor projects as the rain has already started (the Fiji met station has issued warnings for floods to come…). Today we’re fixing our water tank: Pitufa’s aluminium water tanks were leaking when we bought her, we fixed one of them with epoxy and simply put a rubber blade into the other one. This rubber has now chafed through on a corner, so we’re trying to glue the hole–not easy in that tricky area.
2023
11
Nov
Fast passage to Suva
There is some nasty weather coming up, so we left Matuku to sail 100 nm to Suva. With winds around 25 knots from the SE the waves were quickly building up–slate grey, white-capped peaks towering over Pitufa’s stern before rushing through with a WHOOSH letting her surf down with up to 9 knots before lifting her yet again. We left Matuku early in the morning and arrived in Suva at midnight–it takes quite some stress out of passage planning when you know you can arrive during the night without tricky passes or obstacles and we’ve been to Suva often enough to know our way around. We picked up a mooring in Lami Bay and have settled in for some boat–project days while it’s grey and rainy outside.
2023
05
Nov
Photos: no-fishing zone (tabu) in Matuku
Marine Reserve in Matuku
When we started discussing the problem of overfishing with the people of Matuku last year we found open ears: they were already concerned and considering options. Ratu Niu (the chief of Yaroi) and Roko Tuni (the headman of Yaroi) as well as Cama (the headman of Lomati) and Tui (the conservation representative) are eager to protect the resources of their island for future generations! We started a fundraiser to help the islanders (thanks for all donations!!) and Tony and David Philp of Trade Winds Marine sponsored and fabricated the material for the markers. The project will go on over the next years, let's hope it will help Matuku's reefs to stay healthy and the fishermen to have sustainable resources. Please keep supporting Matuku!
(26 photos)
2023
05
Nov
The Tabu in Matuku is now official!
Yesterday the big no-fishing zone between the villages of Yaroi and Lomati just north of Matuku’s main pass was officially inaugurated by Chief Ratu Niu and the minister of Yaroi! Hopefully the ban on spearfishing and netfishing in the Tabu area will help the reefs of Matuku to regain a healthy eco-system and to guarantee sustainable fishing in the rest of the lagoon for the future!
The Tabu committee inspecting the material for the marker buoys. They were sponsored and fabricated by Tony and David Philp of Trade Winds Marine, thanks a lot!
Roko Tuni made the cement weights for the buoys.
Last week we brought out the buoys marking the no-fishing zone with Tuni and Maikeli.
We visited the schools in Makadru and Yaroi village to raise awareness for sustainable use of resources.
On November 3 the minister blessed the zone: “We were put on this earth to cultivate and guard all that God gave to us…”
We’ll keep supporting the Tabu, so the villages can maintain and patrol it. A big thank you goes out to all our friends and supporters who helped this project with donations!!!
2023
22
Oct
Passing ships
Our nomadic life-style means that we meet many other cruisers briefly in one place, before our paths go in different directions again. Meeting up with old friends is therefore more precious to us than to other people I suppose. Revisiting the Lau group again with Soraya and Thomas of SY Garulfo we enjoyed our favourite places even more than before–shared joy is twice the joy!
They’ll be off to NZ after a brief visit to Fiji–fair winds and stay safe!
2023
19
Oct
Fijian translation of our brochure
I met Liti on facebook (of all places), we got chatting about Fiji, the beautiful islands of the Lau group, the wonderful underwater world and the need to protect it. Liti volunteered to translate our brochure about sustainable fishing into Itaukei (Fijian) and did a great job! Thanks a lot for all your help–vinaka vaka levu!!
2023
17
Oct
Our new book: Cruising Know-How
Over the years we have written tons of articles about sailing, DIY, life-style topics, etc. for different magazines. Now I have put 54 of them together in a book, basically a “best of Pitufa”
It’s simply called “Cruising Know-How” and it’s available on Amazon as a black-and-white paperback and in colour as an e-book, paperback and even hard-cover! Prices range from 9,90 USD to 40 USD for the hard-cover, but rest assured, I only get 5 bucks each, no matter which one you buy
2023
16
Oct
Article in the Ahoy magazine
If you’ve participated in the Musket Cove Regatta this year, check out our article in this month’s Ahoy magazine on the Downunder Rally page! You might be on the pics
2023
16
Oct
Exchanging gifts
In Fiji it’s traditional to bring a gift when you visit another island/village, not just for foreigners, but also for locals. You present this sevusevu (usually a bundle of kava) and the chief speaks a prayer and welcomes you as a member of the village. In the traditional islands of the Lau group you then get a host family and it’s a very nice cultural insight to spend time with them, do lunch together, go for walks, etc. Our host families have always been very generous with us and willing to share the little they have (veg, fruit, etc.) and of course we want to give presents back in return.
When we were here in Fulaga last year, our host Maika asked us to mend their kayak, but the PVC was broken beyond repair. When we got back to the mainland we started looking for used kayaks and last September we bought one from other cruisers–inflatable, so not quite ideal, but at least a means of transport!
2023
15
Oct
Holidays in wonderland
The weather is still rather cool, but we’re using the sunny days here in Fulaga to go snorkeling in the fabulous pass and explore the wonderland of mushrooms islands by kayak. After an extended time of health issues and work projects it’s good to be out and about again… Fulaga is a raised atoll, so what used to be the outer reef and coral heads inside the lagoon is now sticking out as sharp-edged lime stone islands. An almost surreal view in combination with the light-turquoise waters of the lagoon!
2023
09
Oct
Trip to Fulaga
We still have lots of things to organise and to do in Matuku, but the material for the tabu buoys has not arrived yet, so we have time for a little trip to another, pretty island in the Lau group. We have left in the afternoon with perfect conditions to sail due east and should arrive tomorrow morning in Fulaga. 95 nm to go, southerly winds 15 knots, boat speed 6 knots.
2023
05
Oct
Colder than usual
It has been blowing hard for weeks now with only short interruptions with a squash zone on top of a high above New Zealand bringing accelerated trade winds to the area of Fiji. We’re glad about the cold weather and don’t mind wearing socks and hoodies for a while longer, as the cool breeze keeps the temperature of the water down as well. The Eastern Pacific is already much warmer than usual (typical for El Nino) and the Humboldt Stream that usually brings cold, nutrient-rich waters to the area of Galapagos has collapsed with lethal consequences for the eco system there (and in many other parts of the world).
We hope that El Nino conditions will kick in late here and hopefully we won’t have to witness coral bleaching in Fiji. El Nino also brings a higher risk of cyclones, another big worry out here.
2023
01
Oct
Revisiting places
It was great to come back to “our island” Matuku, see familiar faces everywhere and get a wonderfully warm welcome from our hosts Jiko and Penina and their daughters. We have met Ratu Niu, the chief of the main village, as well and had a long, interesting talk about environmental issues with him.
Today we were invited for a spectacular Sunday lunch with shrimp and land crab–Penina had sent out her girls to catch them yesterday and prepared them deliciously
2023
26
Sep
Sailing eastwards to the Lau
Finally we are underway to the Lau Islands again! The past few days have flown by in a flurry of boat projects, shopping, organising, meeting people, while keeping an eye on the ever-changing weather forecasts… What looked like a nice weather window with NE winds to sail SEwards turned into a nasty front, too short to actually reach our destination. We have postponed our departure for a day and are heading out close-hauled into rough conditions towards Matuku. 95 nm to go!