We’d like to share some impressions of our journey, of places we visited, people we met, and wildlife we encountered. We keep our blog entries usually free of photos to facilitate quick access for the bandwidth-impaired (like us), so we rather upload a separate photo gallery here from time to time. Enjoy browsing through our photos!
Smurfy's second month aboard
October brought lots of fun helping with sails, keeping us busy on passages (we had to put him in a harness at some point, not a popular move), coconuts, flying fishies and tons of playtime!
(22 photos)
Captain Smurfy's first passages!
After 2 weeks aboard we did our first passages with our new ship's cat. We needn't have worried: Smurfy was neither afraid of the engine or the noise of the chain, nor did he get seasick despite rough conditions and after some cautious watching he went exploring. On his second sailing day he already wanted to help with lines and enjoyed all the action :-)
(20 photos)
A new ship's cat!
3 years after our Leeloo died we have finally filled that cat-shaped hole in our lives again! Meet Smurfy, our perfect little admiral from Vanuatu :-)
(24 photos)
Trip to Europe 2024
During the southern winter 2024, we did a six week long trip to Europe: a few days stop-over in Singapore, then on to England, Croatia, visiting family and friends in Austria, a train ride to Zurich and back again to Vanuatu via Istanbul and Singapore.
(36 photos)
Anatom and Mystery Island, Vanuatu
In June 2024 we spent 3 weeks at the southernmost (inhabited) island of Vanuatu: we loved the friendly villages on Anatom (thanks for all the fruit!) and we had little Mystery Island just to ourselves without any cruise-ships with endless beach walks and great snorkeling!
(36 photos)
Pearl collection June 2024
I've made a whole range of new designs! As always with high-quality pearls in combination with leather, fabric and stainless steel.
(23 photos)
Tanna, Vanuatu, June 2024
Port Resolution is a popular, but rolly bay on the eastside of Tanna, where we stayed for a few days. Our first impressions of Vanuatu!
(17 photos)
Mt. Yasur, Tanna, Vanuatu
This volcano on Tanna is easily reached with a (bumpy) 4WD ride from Pt. Resolution. It was a very impressive experience to stand right above the spitting lava pools and not just hear the rumbling but feel the shockwaves of the explosions below!
(36 photos)
Levuka
Fiji's first capital is an Unesco World Heritage and worth a visit! Cute, little colonial houses and a laid-back atmosphere. We spent a few days anchored off town in calm weather in April 2024.
(20 photos)
The Great Astrolabe Reef is great indeed!!
The coral inside the lagoon of Kadavu and its northern islands is mediocre, so we didn't have high expectations for the famous barrier reef that stretches out about 60 nm from the northern tip of the lagoon, along the east side and down the southern side of Kadavu. But it's mindboggling: a great variety of healthy coral and tons and tons of fishies!! We used the calm summer weather to anchor on the outer reef and enjoy the passes.
(40 photos)
Yabu bird island
Just north of Ono lies a tiny islet that is traditionally "tabu" (meaning taboo: locals told us that nobody is allowed ashore to protect the seabird colonies) and on top of that an officially recognised wildlife sanctuary! We anchored close to the island to observe the birds, but did not go ashore.
(20 photos)
Christmas in Ono
We love the pretty, little islands on the northern tip of the Kadavu archipelago! We made friends in the friendly village of Nabouwalu on Ono and spent Christmas there.
(29 photos)
Pearl jewellery made on Pitufa
I've been making creative pearl designs for almost 10 years now. High quality black pearls in combination with leather, fabric and stainless steel. Each design is unique!
(18 photos)
Sculpture beach on Ono
Going for a beach walk just before Christmas we found an array of sculptures done by mother nature in all shades of purple!
(22 photos)
Marine Reserve in Matuku
When we started discussing the problem of overfishing with the people of Matuku last year we found open ears: they were already concerned and considering options. Ratu Niu (the chief of Yaroi) and Roko Tuni (the headman of Yaroi) as well as Cama (the headman of Lomati) and Tui (the conservation representative) are eager to protect the resources of their island for future generations! We started a fundraiser to help the islanders (thanks for all donations!!) and Tony and David Philp of Trade Winds Marine sponsored and fabricated the material for the markers. The project will go on over the next years, let's hope it will help Matuku's reefs to stay healthy and the fishermen to have sustainable resources. Please keep supporting Matuku!
(26 photos)
Road trip to Suva
We rented a car and drove all around Viti Levu, the big main island of Fiji. We stayed at the Suva-i-Colo Eco Lodge https://www.rainforestecolodge.com.fj/, did some hiking and met friends from the Lau Islands, who were also visiting the capital.
(33 photos)
On the hard in Vuda
After 3 years in the water it was time to haul out again, even though our antifouling was still in surprisingly good shape! We stayed out for 10 days, changed the cutlass bearing, did 2 layers of antifouling (Carboline Alloy 100, great stuff for aluminium boats), some cosmetic paint jobs on the bow, renewed a thru-hull and did some interiour plumbing. Vuda is a nice yard with friendly staff, a restaurant with lunch specials and a bar as a meeting point, but even though we were lucky with the weather and only had occasional showers, the area around Pitufa was a swamp and the lack of chandleries made it necessary to run endless errands to hardware stores in town and the chandleries down in Denarau.
(16 photos)
Suva, Fiji
Suva is an ideal stop-over to stock up on provisioning with cheap supermarkets and market as well as well-stocked hard-ware stores and posh supermarkets with a wide array of goodies. We stayed there two weeks, renewed our visa and did way too much shopping.
(24 photos)
Taveuni Island, Fiji
Fiji's third biggest island features rainforest and lots of waterfalls. The main sight ashore for nature lovers is the Bouma national, which is located on the east side of the island and therefore impossible to reach by boat in tradewind conditions. We got lucky and enjoyed a full week exploring this rugged shore-line in NW wind!
(29 photos)
Wailangilala
We were happy to find one of the few remaining bird islands in the South Pacific with large colonies of boobies, noddies and terns--only to discover that it's for sale, hopefully the new owner won't ruin it... Just 3 Million USD ;-)
(32 photos)
Fulanga, Fiji
We spent a few weeks in Fulanga, enjoying the strange landscape of this raised atoll and the friendly people. The little island in the southern Lau group is a popular place, no less than 120 yachts came here in 2022, but in November we had the lagoon just to ourselves.
(30 photos)
Fulanga's underwater world
Among the many passes we've snorkeled, Fulanga's definitely among our Top 3. Big groups of fish outside, a wonderful variety of healthy coral and myriads of little fish inside. Overfishing's a problem in the lagoon, so we tried to convince the islanders to install protected zones to ensure sustainable fishing.
(30 photos)
Our new kayak
We've recently bought an inflatible two-seater kayak and we love our Advanced Elements Island Voyage! It's stable, tracks well, light, easy to handle and store. It's quiet and pollution-free - the perfect way to explore lagoons! Especially between the mushroom islands of Fulanga it's the perfect means of transport...
(16 photos)
Matuku
We have visited the little island Matuku in the Western Lau group twice this year (2022). It's off the beaten track and not many yachts make it here. The people are super-friendly, there are several good anchorages and the reef is simply beautiful!
(46 photos)
Vanua Balavu, Fiji
We spent two weeks in this fascinating archipelago with a maze of lime-stone islands (raised coral reefs and bommies) in the north and fertile hills further south.
(40 photos)
First impressions of Fiji
We arrived in Fiji on June 1, spent a week in Savusavu, did some shopping and sail repairs and sailed on to the little islands of Namena (a marine reserve with great reefs) and Makogai (a former leper colony).
(28 photos)
Passage to Fiji
In May 2022 we sailed from French Polynesia to Fiji: 1500 nautical miles in 15 days, many days with light winds, some great sailing and a front in between. In fickle winds and everchanging conditions we did more sail changes than on any other passage, but it was a good sail!
(30 photos)
Our last cyclone season in French Polynesia
We spent our last southern summer here exploring off the beaten track in the Austral Islands. A last highlight, before we leave our home-base French Polynesia after almost 9 years here.
(44 photos)
A second mooring in Rapa Iti
In January 2022 we installed a second mooring for sailboats in the bay of Ahurei, Rapa Iti. Thanks a lot to the Commune of Rapa for sponsoring most of the material, to Alex (the chief of the firefighters) for working with us, to our friends Soraya and Thomas on SY Garulfo for all their work and to SY Pitufa for carrying the blocks! The mooring consists of two 750 kg blocks that are linked with 14 mm chain and a 25 mm rope goes up to the surface. It is well suited for yachts the size of Pitufa (41 ft, 12 tons) or smaller. It is located at S 27° 36,700' W 144° 19,872'. The mooring we installed three years ago is suitable for bigger boats up to 25 tons (S 27° 36,808' W 144° 20,034'. The moorings are not insured, but well made and regularly checked. We usually prefer anchoring to moorings, but in the bay of Ahurei you either have to anchor in deep basins with doubtful holding (25 to 35 m) or on bommies--all the shallower parts are covered in live, fragile staghorn coral, so picking up a mooring is the best choice! Please help checking and maintaining the moorings if you visit. The commune does not charge for the use, but donations to the mairie are highly appreciated.
(23 photos)
Rough passage to Rapa
Rapa, the southernmost island of French Polynesia, lies outside of the tropics and the weather's a bit rougher down there. To sail there from Raivavae we picked a window with NW winds in the beginning, then we knew we'd have to sail through a front with SE winds, before arriving with SW winds. The short trip of only 300 nautical miles took 4 days, because we had to tack into strong headwinds.
(10 photos)
Fishies, birds and smurfs--impressions of the Tuamotus
We spent 3 months in the Tuamotu archipelago, found some fabulous wildlife off the beaten track and explored atolls we had not been to before.
(47 photos)
We love sharks!
Sharks are relentlessly hunted in many areas for their fins and (cheap) meat. Here in French Polynesia they are protected, but illegal shark fishing boats come into coastal waters anyway, local fishermen kill them as competition and worried parents fear for their children and kill them along beaches. Big species (great whites, tiger sharks) are indeed dangerous for swimmers, but accidents occur seldom. The reef sharks we meet in lagoons are curious and harmless. Bigger species (lemon sharks, hammerheads, pelagic white tips) have become rare here and they are usually only aggressive, when there's blood in the water (when people are spearfishing).
(18 photos)
Winter 2021
During the coolest months of the year (July and August) we like to hang out around the big, high islands of the Societies that give shelter from the mara'armu (strong, cold SE wind). We got lots of projects done and enjoyed some snorkeling and hiking breaks.
(40 photos)
Cyclone season 2020/2021 in Raivavae
We wanted to spend a few quiet months in Raivavae to work on projects and to go easy on our elderly ship's cat. We enjoyed a gorgeous summer, had fun with cruiser friends and local friends and found unexpected nature gems. An anti-cruiser campaign led by the protestant priest gave our summer a bit of a bitter after-taste. Not many sailboats make it to Raivavae so his claims they were polluting and destroying the lagoon seemed extreme. We tried our best to explain and improve relationships...
(44 photos)
Remnants of Untouched Nature in the Tuamotus
Here are some impressions from our quest for wildlife and wilderness in the Tuamotus. A few specks survived the ever expanding, destructive copra industry and unsustainable exploitation. We document, report, and try to raise awareness.
(58 photos)
Through the Tuamotus
From October 2019 until January 2012 we visited a few atolls of the Tuamotus. The weather was unusually grey, windy and rainy, but of course we show you the sunny side of those pretty places ;-)
(58 photos)
Makatea
We visited Makatea, a raised atoll just a bit NE of Tahiti, in October 2019. There used to be phosphate mining, the overgrown relics look like an open-air museum. Ask for Ruben to get a tour of the island!
(24 photos)
Raroia, Tuamotus
In May 2019 we visited Raroia for the first time and found an unexpected nature paradise with larger bird colonies than anywhere else in the Tuamotus and a lagoon teeming with curious sharks. If you visit Raroia, be careful not to disturb the ground breeding birds. A masked booby chick dies within 15 minutes when the parents are shied away!
(59 photos)
Nengonengo
In May 2019 we made it through the narrow, uncharted pass into Nengonengo, only to be told it was private and off limits. We were allowed to stay during heavy weather and then got permission to visit the bird islands around the atoll. The local pearl farm was abandoned 20 years ago, since then the atoll has become a haven for wildllife.
(36 photos)
Matapukurega Festival 2019
In April 2019 the Gambier Islands hosted a cultural festival. Singers, dancers, drummers came from all over French Polynesia and presented the differences between the Gambier, the Australes, the Tuamotus, the Societies and the Marquesas.
(60 photos)
A Mooring for Rapa Iti
To protect the delicate coral and to make life easier for visiting cruisers, we installed a mooring together with the community of Rapa Iti. This mooring can be picked up at S27°36.808' W144°20.034'. More moorings are planned.
(21 photos)
Tubuai, Austral Islands
In October 2018 we visited Tubuai. We took a while to find a cozy anchorage, but then we enjoyed the hiking and the friendly people.
(24 photos)
Rurutu, Austral Islands
Spectacular cliffs and caves, beautiful beaches, mountain hiking, migrating humpback whales, and super friendly people--Rurutu has it all! We spent 3 fabulous weeks there in October 2018.
(72 photos)
Maria, Austral Islands
The westernmost Austral island is a real nature gem. We anchored on the outer reef of this tiny atoll which has a dense endemic forest and large bird colonies.
(47 photos)
Rarotonga 2018
Rarotonga was the last stop of our tour through the Cook Islands. We were busy with shopping, provisioning, and hiking and enjoyed 10 pleasant days despite the bouncy, dirty and expensive harbor (Sep./Oct. 2018).
(20 photos)
Aitutaki
In September 2018 we spent 10 rolly days anchored on the outer reef of Aitutaki (Southern Cook Islands). We found lots of tourists and not many sights or things to do...
(24 photos)
Tongareva (Penrhyn), Cook Islands
In August 2018 we spent 4 weeks in the northernmost atoll of the Cook Islands and were surprised to find a nature paradise despite two villages.
(48 photos)
Nature paradise
In August 2018 we spent a few magical days off the beaten track on this uninhabited atoll.
(72 photos)
On the hard in Raiatea
In June 2018 we spent 18 days on the hard at Raiatea Carenage. Apart from a new anti-fouling and many small jobs, Pitufa got her topsides painted.
(22 photos)
Tahiti May 2018
Our annual visit to Tahiti always means lots of shopping, maintenance and repairs.
(15 photos)
Cyclone season 17/18 in the Gambier archipelago
Even though it was our 5th visit to the Gambier Islands we still found plenty of new things to explore over and under water and had a good time revisiting friends and places.
(48 photos)
Rapa Iti, Austral Islands
We spent Christmas 2017 and January 2018 in Rapa Iti and fell in love with this remote gem and its lovely people. Apart from its rough weather, Rapa is a perfect cruising destination and a hikers' paradise.
(53 photos)
Toau
In October 2017 we explored Toau in the Tuamotus and were glad to find some areas with unspoiled nature ashore and underwater.
(60 photos)
Winter 2017
We spent the winter 2017 (July to September) in Tahiti working on boat projects. After that we had a week of hiking holidays in Moorea.
(14 photos)
Swimming with Manta rays
In June 2017 we repeatedly encountered a group of about 20 mantas in our favorite Tuamotu atoll. We saw them several days in a row in the pass, feeding on tiny copepod crustaceans in the strong outgoing current. They didn't seem to mind our company, so we spent hours watching them.
(23 photos)
Te Matapukarega festival in the Gambier
In February 2017 the first cultural festival of the Gambier Islands took place. Almost the whole population of the Gambier and all the cruisers in the anchor field attended this fabulous two-day event.
(19 photos)
Interlude as landlubbers
During the cyclone season 16/17 in the Gambier Islands we stayed as house-sitters on Taravai. The Polynesian owners Edouard and Denise live in Tahiti and are happy to have somebody looking after house and garden.
(60 photos)
Tahanea 2016
Tahanea is the most pristine atoll we've found so far. We love its wildlife and beauty and stayed six weeks in October and November 2016.
(49 photos)
Tahanea - Birds of the Tuamotus
Seabirds are threatened by destruction of their habitat (they need shrubs and leaf trees, not coconut plantations), introduction of predatory species (rats, cats, etc.) and human hunters. Tahanea is one of the atolls where they can still breed undisturbed on a handful of motus on the southern side of the lagoon.
(36 photos)
Tahanea's Underwater World
After seeing too many places with dead and empty reefs further west in the Pacific, returning to Tahanea's healthy coral and numerous fish was a relief.
(60 photos)
Sailing with our Cat
Leeloo has been cruising with us right from the start. Here are some snapshots we took over the past 5 years.
(30 photos)
Eastwards, Part 3: Rarotonga (Cook Islands)
The last stop on our passage eastward was Rarotonga, the main island of the Cook Islands. The island has a fringing reef, but the narrow lagoon is too shallow for sailboats. We stayed 1 week in Avatiu harbour.
(35 photos)
Eastwards, Part 2: Palmerston (Cook Islands)
We stopped for a week at this interesting atoll. Most of the 57 people who live here are descendants of William Marsters and his 3 polynesian wives. Arriving yachts are greeted by a host family and integrated into island life.
(50 photos)
Eastwards, Part 1: Tonga, Niue, Beveridge Reef
In August 2016 we decided to sail from Tonga back to Tahiti. Using shifting winds during passing troughs we sailed in short hops eastwards from island to island.
(20 photos)
Tongatapu, Tonga
Tongatapu is the main island of the Kingdom of Tonga. The capital Nuku'alofa is a busy town with lots of markets and cheap eateries. We spent a winter month exploring this island and its adjacent motus in July 2016.
(50 photos)
Niue
In June 2016 we spent a week in Niue. The 'Rock of Polynesia' is a raised atoll and the smallest independent nation of the world, even though it's associated tightly with New Zealand. After 3 years in French Polynesia it was weird to chat with English speaking Polynesians.
(40 photos)
Beveridge Reef
On the way from French Polynesia to Niue we stopped for two nights at Beveridge Reef, a submerged atoll without any motus. Being anchored without land in sight turned out to be a special, but bouncy experience.
(15 photos)
Maupihaa
In May 2016 we spent 3 weeks in the tiny atoll of Maupihaa (only 4 miles long). People from Maupiti come and live here to collect copra, currently 15 people live on the island. The hospitality of the islanders and the bird colonies of the western and northern motus made our last stop in French Polynesia a special experience.
(60 photos)
Kauehi, Tuamotus
In April 2016 we made a short stopover in Kauehi on the way back from the Marquesas to Tahiti.
(22 photos)
Cyclone season 2015/16: Southern Marquesas
We spent this El Niño cyclone season in the Marquesas. We briefly visited Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa and stayed long at our favourite island Tahuata.
(50 photos)
Cyclone season 2015/16: Northern Marquesas
We spent this El Niño cyclone season in the Marquesas. We really enjoyed the hospitality and generosity of the Marquesans, but 5 months in the open and rolly bays were quite a long time. Here are a few impressions of the northern group: Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou and Ua Huka.
(50 photos)
Festival des Arts des Iles Marquises
Every 4 years a big festival is held in one of the Marquesan islands, this year in December 2015 in Hiva Oa. We watched two days of the impressive spectacle.
(42 photos)
Bora Bora
The name triggers associations of the perfect Southsea paradise at home. The landscape of the island's really extraordinary, but the sheer amount of hotels and traffic spoil the picture a bit. We stopped there twice while island hopping in September 2015.
(22 photos)
Maupiti
In September 2015 we spent two weeks in the miniature paradise Maupiti, which gets much fewer tourists than its neighbour Bora Bora. Highlights were the manta rays that roam the lagoon and the stunning views from the mountain.
(44 photos)
Huahine
Huahine's landscape is not quite as spectacular as Moorea's or Bora Bora's, but it is a pleasant island with good infrastructure and friendly locals. We spent three relaxed weeks there in August 2015.
(39 photos)
Raivavae, Iles Australes
We visited Raivavae in May 2015 during the southern autumn. It was hard to find a weather window to get there and even more so to leave again due to weather quirks (a highly active South-Pacific Convergence Zone led to many lows). Here are some impressions of the few sunny days.
(50 photos)
Akamaru, Gambier Islands
In 2015, during our third visit to the Gambier islands, we finally made it to Akamaru. Its anchorages are a bit inconvenient, but this lovely island is definitely worth the effort.
(24 photos)
Gambier Islands--Home of the Black Pearls
All around the world they are sold as 'Tahiti Pearls', but in fact most of the famous black pearls are grown in the lagoons of the Gambier and the Tuamotus. We visited Eric's pearl farm and Rikitea's engraving school in March 2015.
(27 photos)
Iles Gambier: Motu Puaumu
Hanging out at Motu Puaumu in the north feels like being in the Tuamotus, but the high islands with their protected bays and lush mountains are just a few miles away.
(28 photos)
Makemo, Tuamotu Archipelago
We only wanted to stop quickly for some shopping, but unfavourable winds held us for 3 weeks. Makemo is a huge atoll with a bommy-strewn lagoon, a relatively big town, and copra plantations everywhere.
(30 photos)
Tahanea, Tuamotu Archipelago
In September 2014 we set out from Tahiti to explore the Tuamotus, fell in Love with the first place, and stayed for 8 weeks in beautiful, uninhabited Tahanea.
(70 photos)
Raiatea and Tahaa
We spent July and August 2014 on these twin islands. We liked the friendly locals and having turquoise anchorages on the barrier reef right next to deep bays between high mountains. Closer inspection revealed the down sides: mainly dead coral, hardly any fish in the lagoon, cruisers are not welcome on the private motus, lots of rubbish along the road... Being struck down by dengue fever wasn't nice eihter.
(50 photos)
Moorea
Tahiti's little neighbor features lush, scenic mountains and turquoise lagoons, but is a bit too touristic for our taste. June 2014.
(35 photos)
Repairs in Tahiti
In April 2014 we caught a rope in the propeller in the Gambier and damaged the thrust bearing. Without use of the engine we had to sail directly to Tahiti without stopping in the Tuamotus. We hauled Pitufa out in Papeete and spent 15 days on the hard repairing the bearing, cutting open and cleaning the diesel tank and renewing the antifouling.
(19 photos)
Motu Kouaku, Iles Gambier
In early (southern-hemisphere) autumn we spent a few days all on our own at this Motu in the South-East. It got quite bouncy because high swell made it in and a front passed over us, but we faced it out and were rewarded with another glittering, magical day. Even though Kouaku is only a few miles S of Tauna, it looks quite different. Only hardy shrubs, pandanus and a handful of coconut palms grow here. It is more than 1km long and has beaches of fine white sand. Like Tauna it is also uninhabited and a bird-nesting refuge.
(34 photos)
Our house on Taravai, Iles Gambier
During the cyclone season 2013/14 we stayed a while in a little house on our favourite island in the Gambier. Living ashore in the tropics turned out to be a hassle, an adventure, but also a worthwhile experience.
(46 photos)
The south-west corner of the Gambier lagoon
In January 2014, during totally calm weather, we spent a magical day anchored just behind the south-west barrier reef.
(8 photos)
Motu Tauna, Iles Gambier
On the barrier reef in the very east of the Gambier archipelago, the tiny motu Tauna seems to float in a symphony of colours.
(36 photos)
Marquesas: Ua Pou
Ua Pou was the last of the Marquesas we visited in October 2013. We stopped only for a few days on the western side during a calm period. The bay was still a bit rolly but the rugged island with its high rock spires is worth a visit.
(17 photos)
Marquesas: Nuku Hiva
Nuku Hiva is the biggest and busiest of the Marquesas with good infrastructure and plenty of sights. Lots of cruisers stop in the capital Taiohae to enjoy the amenities of civilisation (restaurants, well-stocked supermarkets, daily veggie market, hospital, etc.). We explored the island from mid September to end of October 2013, enjoyed beautiful hikes, but soon got sick of mosquitoes, murky water, and rolly anchorages.
(50 photos)
Marquesas: Tahuata
We visited the little island Tahuata in September 2013, a quiet month here in the Marquesas as most of the cruisers are already on their way further west towards New Zealand. We enjoyed the cute, tidy villages and made friends with the locals.
(40 photos)
Marquesas: Fatu Hiva
In August 2013 we sailed 800 miles from the wintery Gambier islands to the Marquesas, the northernmost island group of French Polynesia. We spent about 3 weeks in the spectacular Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva.
(50 photos)
Mangareva, Part 2
After spending more than two months in the Gambier, our first gallery about the main island Mangareva felt somehow incomplete. Here are some more impressions of this lovely island, the hikes we did, the friends we made (human and canine) and the daily life in the village Rikitea and in the anchorage.
(40 photos)
July Festival in Mangareva
When we arrived in Rikitea in May, we already heard drumming each evening. Two competing dance and drumming groups spend several months preparing for the highlight of the year: the 'Le Juillet' or 'Heiva' festival with daily traditional dance performances and fringe events takes place between the 5th and 14th of July. In the end prizes in different categories (best Mangareva dance, Tahitian dance, single and pair dance, drumming group) are awarded. The festival turned out surprisingly tame, maybe due to the fact that no alcohol was sold.
(50 photos)
Gambier's underwater world
The Gambier feature pristine coral reefs and abundant fish in crystal-clear water. The fish grow generally large and are not shy since nobody hunts them because of Ciguatera (a nerve poison from an algae that accumulates in fish without harming them). All pictures were taken with our small, waterproof Canon Powershot D20 while snorkeling. The dropping temperatures (water temperature in May still 26°C, in July only 22°C) prevented us from exploring more snorkel or dive sites.
(30 photos)
Ile Taravai, Iles Gambier
We visited Taravai, the second biggest island in the archipelago, in June 2013 and instantly fell in love with it: rugged mountains, pristine corals, remote bays, beautiful beaches, and only a handful of friendly people.
(50 photos)
Ile Totegegie et Ile Aukena, Iles Gambier
The crystal-clear waters and good charts make exploring within the protected lagoon of the Gambiers easy. At the end of June 2013 we took Pitufa up to the airport island Totegegie and then on to Aukena, the 3rd biggest island in the archipelago.
(26 photos)
Iles Gambier: Mangareva
We arrived in the Gambier Islands, French Polynesia, towards the end of May 2013 and were enchanted by the lush island of Mangareva and its pretty town Rikitea.
(28 photos)
Passage to Polynesia
In April 2013 we set sail from the Galapagos Islands towards the Gambier Islands in French Polynesia. 2900 nautical miles, 24 days at sea---our longest passage so far.
(27 photos)
Isla Isabela, Galapagos
In April 2013 we spent three weeks on Isabela, the largest of the Galapagos Islands. Even though yachties have to pay horrendous sums to be allowed to stay here, the incredible wildlife and the spectacular scenery made it worth it.
(50 photos)
Sailing to the Galapagos islands
At the end of March 2013, we left the Darien of Panama and finally sailed out into the Pacific. It took us 8 days to sail the 950 nautical miles.
(10 photos)
Darién, Panama
In February 2013 we got Pitufa ready for the Pacific in Panama City. We replaced dodgy equipment that had been damaged by a lightning strike in the San Blas, ordered lots of spare parts and filled up Pitufa with provisions. Then we explored the Pacific side of the Darién, its rivers and rainforests in the South of Panama.
(50 photos)
Panama City and Las Perlas
In December 2012 we spent some time in Panama City and sailed to the Perlas with Christians sister Roswitha.
(39 photos)
Pitufa's Panama Canal Transit
After our 'holidays' in the San Blas Islands we came to Portobelo to make repairs and to organize our canal transit. The constant rain in November slowed down our progress on these projects and we spent most of our time fighting mold and drying things. On the 15th of December we had our appointment for the Panama Canal transit, despite of our worries everything went perfectly smooth and we arrived happy and relieved on the 'other side' on the 16th of December. Hurray!
(30 photos)
Kuna Yala -- the San Blas Islands
In September and October 2012 we visited the palm-covered islands of Kuna Yala, an autonomous region in Panama, where the Kuna indios live in their traditional villages.
(50 photos)
Down the Colombian coast
In August 2012 we explored some islands and bays along the Caribbean coast of Colombia. From the popular weekend destination Islas Rosarios via the more quiet Islas de San Bernardo to Sapzurro, the idyllic border town in the unspoiled nature of Darién.
(50 photos)
Cartagena de Indias
End of July 2012 we reached the beautiful city of Cartagena with its interesting contrast between the historic town centre and the surrounding skyscraper districts. Anchoring in the middle of a city was a new experience for us.
(40 photos)
Los Monjes
On the way to Colombia in July 2012 we stopped at the Venezuelan coast guard station on the tiny island Los Monjes del Sur.
(10 photos)
Curacao
We spent most of June and July 2012 in the protected (but nevertheless windy and splasy) anchorage of Spanish Waters on Curacao. Most of the time we were busy working on Pitufa's engine, but we spare you these pictures and show you the beautiful sides of this island.
(20 photos)
Bonaire
We stayed two weeks on a mooring next to Kralendijk's sea front. Along the coast are superb dive and snorkel sites that can easily be reached by dinghy and some are just around the moorings. The Washington-Slagbaai national park in the north-west of Bonaire is a must see. May 2012.
(30 photos)
Grenada
Our time in Grenada was quite eventful. Birgit's family visited us, the first ship chandlers in ages tempted us to spend a small fortune on presents for Pitufa, we explored the island using Grenada's superb mini buses, and then Pitufa was on the hard for three weeks. April and May 2012.
(30 photos)
Tobago
We like this island for its lonely beaches and lush interior even though we had lousy weather and rolly anchorages. February and March 2012.
(40 photos)
Suriname
In January 2012 we caught a glimpse of Amazonia. Suriname provides an easy and save access to the rivers of the rainforest.
(38 photos)
Crossing the Atlantic Ocean
On the 29th December, 2011, we set sail from the Cape Verdes to cross the Atlantic and arrived in Suriname 14 days later.
(10 photos)
Cabo Verde: Ilha Brava
Brava's a tiny island, but there is so much to explore and we felt so at home in Faja d'Agua at the westcoast of the island that we spent the whole December anchored in the same bay.
(39 photos)
Cabo Verde: Sao Vicente and Santo Antao
We sailed from Tarrafal, Sao Nicolao to Mindelo, Sao Vicente via Santa Luzia. We visited Santo Antao by ferry. November 2011.
(25 photos)
Cabo Verde: Sao Nicolao
Unspoiled and tourist-free Sao Nicolao enchanted us with its ragged mountains, lush valleys, and friendly people. November 2011.
(50 photos)
Cabo Verde: Sal and Boa Vista
The first two landfalls on our route were the two dry islands of the Cape Verdean windward islands. October 2011.
(23 photos)
Islas Canarias
In September 2011 we made only brief stops at the islands of La Graciosa, Lanzarote, Fuerte Ventura and Isla de Lobos, and in the marina in Las Palmas on Gran Canaria.
(16 photos)
Gibraltar, door to the Atlantic
We waited several days for the right weather for our passage to the Canaries.
(21 photos)
Melilla
Multicultural Spanish exclave in Morocco. Not many tourists come here, but it's definitely worth visiting! August 2011
(15 photos)
Sardinia
We only sailed along the southern coast. Nice landscapes, but very crowded beaches. The capital Cagliari is impressive though. August 2011
(9 photos)
Southern Adriatic
Our last days in Croatia and sailing through the Strait of Otranto towards Sicily
(10 photos)
We set sails!
Impressions of the first two weeks of our journey as well as the preparations. Pictures of us and Pitufa sailing along Croatia from Pula to Primosten.
(30 photos)
Our First Sailing Trip
In August 2008, after buying Pitufa, we sailed her from Mallorca to Pula (Croatia). 1600 nm in three weeks.
(24 photos)
3 comments
Bronson Moss says:
March 4, 2013 at 9:34 pm (UTC 0)
Birgit and Christian, I love your posts. I’ve been absolutely obsessed with sailing and passage-making for a couple of years now even though I have never set foot on a sailboat. Have been studying pioliting and navigating the seas for a little while now. Hope to get some hands-on sailing experience soon and maybe become a full-time cruiser when I retire in a few years.
I really enjoy the updates and pictures.
Be Blessed and enjoy.
BM
Birgit says:
March 5, 2013 at 10:14 am (UTC 0)
Good luck with your plans, we were also just “book-sailors” before we set off, practical experience comes quickly enough while cruising
Martin says:
January 8, 2020 at 9:41 am (UTC 0)
Hi there – we were just arriving at Rarotonga (from Maria Is) as you were leaving for Maria. Enjoyed seeing your photos and reading about your stay at the Island. When you have some good internet access I’ll send you some bird pictures and maybe you could identify them for us?